It’s kinda the same idea as Chelsea, with open galleries you can just wander into and look at contemporary art. But the cool thing is that the neighborhood is actually a bunch of old factories and low buildings, so the spaces where the artwork is hung makes the art even more intense. Now, the area used to be for the avante garde, but of course once people caught on to the fact that this neighborhood was quite hip, gentrification began. As a result, most artists can’t afford to live there anymore, but it still seemed like an impressive place to have work shown. The strange part was this random Nike building where you can go in, exchange you ID card for an iPod touch, and have a guided tour through the history of Nike shoes. It was actually really cool, and the second floor of the building had all the gear Nike made for the Chinese Olympic team, along with explanations as to why it was so special. Then at the end when Cheng returned the iPod, he got a free Nike propaganda book, complete with blank pages for him to sketch his own shoe designs. I think he was in love.
We quickly ate some noodles when we got back to campus, and then departed to see the Beijing acrobats at the Heaven and Earth Theater. Now, I’ve already seen Cirque du Soleil’s version of Chinese acrobatics, and was very very impressed. But this show was really cool too. There were cute little boys doing jump rope, cute girls throwing around Chinese yoyos, an androgynous man wearing hot pants juggling, and much more. Crazy fun times. I heard lots of “oh my god, no they’re not going to…” and “what, how is this happening” around me, so I’m guessing the other people on my program were suitably impressed. Awed, even.
Since I had to get up at 7.30 this morning I again opted out on any bar shenanigans for the night. I actually woke up feeling much better, though I still have a cough and sound like Janis Joplin (no karaoke-ing for me till my voice goes back to normal!). The I looked outside and WO DE TIAN LE! I could see the mountains in the distance! And… blue skies! The rain yesterday did the most wonderful thing and gave us the most beautiful day anyone could ask for. Zero humidity and cool breezes… could it get any better? Oh yes, because the reason I got up so early was that we were going on an excursion outside the city to a village in the mountains called Cuandixia, an outpost town to Xi’an that has been preserved since the Ming Dynasty.
The bus ride took like 2 hours but it was worth it. We got there and immediately climbed a mountain. I am not kidding. We pa’d a shan at 11 and I would have eaten a better breakfast had I know how rigorous it would be. Oh, and I also would have worn tennis shoes and shorts instead of flip flops and a skirt. But all they said was we were visiting a village! Anyway, footwear woes aside, climbing that mountain was worth it. We got a spectacular view of the entire village and surrounding countryside (read: mountains). It made me realize how terribly out of shape I am, but hey, at least I made it to the top. And down again! Going down was worse, since it was so steep.
After all that work we were duly rewarded with a tremendous meal cooked by a local townsman (a friend of our program director) and his wife. They made us so much food! Like, they would not stop bring out dishes. My favorites were: cucumber with apricot seeds, potatoes and green peppers with beef, and scallion pancakes. All the food was from the village, and apparently three chickens died that morning in our honor. Well, it was delicious. And then the host gave us a history of the village; he is the 15th generation of the Han family who settled the village after the Ming dynasty fell. His grandson is 17th generation. Can you even imagine?? And at one point, this village housed the dynasty’s gold treasure, in a hole underground in the guy’s house. What?? Crazy talk! But it’s true, and that’s why China is amazing.
After lunch we were free to explore on our own for a couple hours. The director took a group over some more mountains to view an abandoned town nearby, but my footwear forced me to stay in the village. Which was fine by me. A small group of us found our way to a terrace restaurant overlooking the town and sat there for a while, drinking pijiu and laotiar-ing with the owner. Between one other 300 level guy and myself, we had a cool conversation with him about Korean people riding scooters, his favorite movie Snakes on a plane (me: you mean… she zai feiji? Him: dui! (and he mimes a snake biting a guy’s head)) and the village itself. A Canadian woman joined us at one point and she was cool too. She had just published a book about Beijing and wanted to revise it later to add a description of this village. Later, one of the RA’s on our program came over and she really helped translate; she even translated the restaurant’s Chinese name into English so more tourists could find out about it. Go ahead, Google Cuandixia and see what you find. I was there! It was feichang piaoliang!
Whelp, tomorrow class officially starts. Although for this week we only have Chinese class, and it doesn’t start till 2. Nice. But it’s four hours long. Not so nice. I read over my 300 level hw and it seems pretty easy actually… so I might have to move up a level. We’ll see. My reading is good but speaking and listening not so much. I’m getting by though. I figured out Snakes on a Plane and Koreans riding motorbikes!
