That this is my last night in Beijing. I've been trying to take pictures of things I see everyday and the places I go, but I should've started this project at least a day ago.
I won't be updating for awhile since I fly out tomorrow and get in really late. Fortunately those 12 hours of my life that I unwittingly gained when I flew here will be given back to me, so that in essence I will be going back in time tomorrow to arrive in the States only 40 mins after leaving Beijing. Oh if only travel was that quick. Luckily I now have several books to keep me occupied on the plane, both in English and Chinese, and assuming Continental hasn't downgraded their facilities thanks to the economic crisis, I should also have some movies to watch in-flight. Looking forward to everything except the actual getting to the airport part, which is always a pain but in Beijing (of course) even more so.
All right now I'm off for my last night of karaoking (or KTV, as we call it here)! Oh how I'll miss you, cheap singing entertainment in classy rooms with terrible music videos on screen.
Saturday, December 13, 2008
Thursday, December 11, 2008
Transport-hation
After Tuesday night's failed attempt to make it to dinner on time via the 394 bus to BeiDa's west gate, I was quite gratified that yesterday I found a bus to take us directly from Bei Wai to the Wudaokou clothing market (hurray 836, you are convenient and efficient!) HOWEVER it took me half an hour of playing around on bjbus.com to figure out the right schedule, AND the bus of course took forever to come while all the other buses (including the loathed 394) whizzed by, repeatedly.
Not to mention while we were waiting, we stood there for enough time that a creepy middle Chinese man approached my and asked me for my phone number and email address (among other questions.) Luckily I had encountered this situation before (on a bus, coincidentally) and I told him my phone is broken and proceeded to give him a fake email address. I would feel bad except I was being polite and he was trying to pick me up, even though I told him I am returning to America in three days and I'm totally not an appropriate age for him. WTH China.
Also I just learned that those strange people who stand outside Carrefour asking for your receipts when you leave actually have a purpose in collecting them. I never gave mine up, but I wondered why they wanted them, because it's not like the receipts have credit cards numbers on them since everyone pays with cash. But apparently they collect them and then sell them to other people who want to claim them as tax returns. What??? Can't you find a better way to stick it to the man?
Oh, China. I've been thinking that a lot lately. I'm trying to take lots of pictures in my last few days here of the random stuff I see everyday, just so I have a reminder of how truly crazy this place is. On one hand, I'm glad to be going home and seeing my family and not having to deal with Beijing transportation/pollution/haggling etc, but on the other hand I know that I'm not done with China yet. So I'm going to enjoy my last few days here, think "Oh China" a lot, and then look forward to some serious R&R back in the US.
Not to mention while we were waiting, we stood there for enough time that a creepy middle Chinese man approached my and asked me for my phone number and email address (among other questions.) Luckily I had encountered this situation before (on a bus, coincidentally) and I told him my phone is broken and proceeded to give him a fake email address. I would feel bad except I was being polite and he was trying to pick me up, even though I told him I am returning to America in three days and I'm totally not an appropriate age for him. WTH China.
Also I just learned that those strange people who stand outside Carrefour asking for your receipts when you leave actually have a purpose in collecting them. I never gave mine up, but I wondered why they wanted them, because it's not like the receipts have credit cards numbers on them since everyone pays with cash. But apparently they collect them and then sell them to other people who want to claim them as tax returns. What??? Can't you find a better way to stick it to the man?
Oh, China. I've been thinking that a lot lately. I'm trying to take lots of pictures in my last few days here of the random stuff I see everyday, just so I have a reminder of how truly crazy this place is. On one hand, I'm glad to be going home and seeing my family and not having to deal with Beijing transportation/pollution/haggling etc, but on the other hand I know that I'm not done with China yet. So I'm going to enjoy my last few days here, think "Oh China" a lot, and then look forward to some serious R&R back in the US.
Thursday, December 4, 2008
COLD NOW
The wind is making scary howling noises outside my window. The good thing is, I wasn't going to go out to find food anyway, because I'm sticking to my budget and therefore dinner plans consisted of making ramen. You'll appreciate my bad eating habits when you get a cool China gift, I promise.
Anyway yesterday our environmental issues class took a day trip to Tianjin. I can't really say much about Tianjin except that they have an awesome planning museum with a truly epic movie about how awesome Tianjin is. We saw where they are planning to build an eco-city on the coast, which should be completed within 20 years or so. It'll be interesting to see how that goes... right now the area is a bunch of polluted grasslands with a nasty polluted river running through it. We had a nice Hunan lunch and then saw a couple factories and then left. Yeah, not the most exciting field trip, but I guess now I can say I visited Beijing's sister city... I guess.
More importantly, Tuesday night we had a lecture where two of Beijing's prominent translators came to speak. Since this just so happens to be my independent research project topic, it was quite fortuitous, really. I will follow up with more info on this later. Tomorrow I've got two tests (and my final day of Chinese class!!) so I might wanna start doing something for those... maybe.
Anyway yesterday our environmental issues class took a day trip to Tianjin. I can't really say much about Tianjin except that they have an awesome planning museum with a truly epic movie about how awesome Tianjin is. We saw where they are planning to build an eco-city on the coast, which should be completed within 20 years or so. It'll be interesting to see how that goes... right now the area is a bunch of polluted grasslands with a nasty polluted river running through it. We had a nice Hunan lunch and then saw a couple factories and then left. Yeah, not the most exciting field trip, but I guess now I can say I visited Beijing's sister city... I guess.
More importantly, Tuesday night we had a lecture where two of Beijing's prominent translators came to speak. Since this just so happens to be my independent research project topic, it was quite fortuitous, really. I will follow up with more info on this later. Tomorrow I've got two tests (and my final day of Chinese class!!) so I might wanna start doing something for those... maybe.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Finally
We have the internet again! There's something about China in that when you have a problem, you just have to wait around until someone else gets around to fixing this problem. No matter how frustrated you feel or how much you complain, you usually just have to wait it out.
Saturday we went shopping at Sanlitun's Yashow market and I spent wayyyy too much money, Sat night we sat around at Lush chatting for several hours, and on Sunday I literally did nothing. Well, Cheng and his Qinghua friends came here to eat Uighur food for dinner, but other than that. Nothing.
I just found out that tomorrow my program is hosting a lecture from a couple prominent Chinese literary translators, and my prof invited me to eat dinner with them beforehand since I'm doing my research project on this very subject. How coincidental and fortunate! Hopefully I'll get enough information tomorrow night to put together a good presentation next week, and then I'll have more time to kick around Beijing instead of worrying about research.
Only two more weeks. Yikes. Also, just so you all know, today is the first of December and the temperature this afternoon was probably in the 60's. Mmm global warming.
(Photo after our Chinese competition. My team (Heli Bote) won! :)
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Thanksgiving Shenanigans
My internet is still down so I'm stealing Cheng's right now :( I'm using this as an excuse not to do my research project, but honestly I'm starting to get a little worried bc we only have two weeks left! Ah! Must do everything in that amount of time so I feel satisfied with my time in Beijing.
Wednesday my program had a Thanksgiving meal planned, but it was pretty expensive and I didn't want to be disappointed by some "chinese style thanksgiving food" so some of my friends and some of Cheng's friends decided to eat Beijing roast duck instead :) We went to this semi-famous hole-in-the-wall where apparently lots of foreign dignitaries like to eat. We ordered to whole ducks and some veggie dishes, and all was well.
The next night my classmates and I invited our teachers over for a home-made thanksgiving. We all pitched in and cooked some dishes, and the teachers brought some food, so all together we had the most amazing feast and tons of leftovers. The only traditional thanksgiving food in sight was mashed potatos and gravy but hey, we're in China so we were just going for the spirit of the thing. Annnnd then afterward we went out for ladies night at Propaganda. Haha ok so really not the typical thanksgiving at all, but it was still a good time.
Last night we tried our luck at a local "indie pop" concert hosted by a bar called D22. We only got through 2 acts and then we had to leave. It was just bad news. And the bar was really smoky. But we tried and now we know better.
Then today we tried our luck with gift shopping and had some good sucess. I know my time is really winding down here because I'm having to budget myself for these last two weeks so that I still have enough to get awesome China presents for everyone. I guess I'll have to cut down on the extravagent eating (like... any western food place) and frequent more sketchy noodle joints instead, so that I have more money for presentsss. Ah I can't wait for Christmas!
Wednesday my program had a Thanksgiving meal planned, but it was pretty expensive and I didn't want to be disappointed by some "chinese style thanksgiving food" so some of my friends and some of Cheng's friends decided to eat Beijing roast duck instead :) We went to this semi-famous hole-in-the-wall where apparently lots of foreign dignitaries like to eat. We ordered to whole ducks and some veggie dishes, and all was well.
The next night my classmates and I invited our teachers over for a home-made thanksgiving. We all pitched in and cooked some dishes, and the teachers brought some food, so all together we had the most amazing feast and tons of leftovers. The only traditional thanksgiving food in sight was mashed potatos and gravy but hey, we're in China so we were just going for the spirit of the thing. Annnnd then afterward we went out for ladies night at Propaganda. Haha ok so really not the typical thanksgiving at all, but it was still a good time.
Last night we tried our luck at a local "indie pop" concert hosted by a bar called D22. We only got through 2 acts and then we had to leave. It was just bad news. And the bar was really smoky. But we tried and now we know better.
Then today we tried our luck with gift shopping and had some good sucess. I know my time is really winding down here because I'm having to budget myself for these last two weeks so that I still have enough to get awesome China presents for everyone. I guess I'll have to cut down on the extravagent eating (like... any western food place) and frequent more sketchy noodle joints instead, so that I have more money for presentsss. Ah I can't wait for Christmas!
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Oops
Our internet was down all weekend but I forgot to notify anyone so I'm sorry if I caused any distress. No worries, I am still alive.
This Saturday Cheng and I visited the Fragrant Hills and we saw TWO--I repeat TWO squirrels. This is an amazing feat for Beijing, since they pretty much wiped out all the wildlife here 50 years ago. So yeah the Fragrant Hills is this park outside of the 5th ring road that's actually really easy to get to from my school. Except when we got there we realized the main attraction was to see the red leaves in the fall, but right now all the leaves have already fallen off the trees. Boo. Well, we climbed around for a bit (because this is what you do at Chinese tourist sites) and then called it a day.
Sunday was quite wonderful because we had breakfast around 12 and this consisted of: eggs, potatoes, bacon (which I gave away), and banana stuffed french toast. Oh, and hot chocolate. For 40 kuai! Ahhhhh it was bliss. Then I returned to my place and called up a Chinese BFSU friend to meet for dinner. It was really great to get dimsum and chat with some actual Chinese friends (as opposed to the fake ones).
Ok I have to run now because we have an environmental law person coming to speak to our class tonight, but I gotta grab dinner first. I will update about thanksgiving after I have gorged myself on delicious food over the next couple days!
This Saturday Cheng and I visited the Fragrant Hills and we saw TWO--I repeat TWO squirrels. This is an amazing feat for Beijing, since they pretty much wiped out all the wildlife here 50 years ago. So yeah the Fragrant Hills is this park outside of the 5th ring road that's actually really easy to get to from my school. Except when we got there we realized the main attraction was to see the red leaves in the fall, but right now all the leaves have already fallen off the trees. Boo. Well, we climbed around for a bit (because this is what you do at Chinese tourist sites) and then called it a day.
Sunday was quite wonderful because we had breakfast around 12 and this consisted of: eggs, potatoes, bacon (which I gave away), and banana stuffed french toast. Oh, and hot chocolate. For 40 kuai! Ahhhhh it was bliss. Then I returned to my place and called up a Chinese BFSU friend to meet for dinner. It was really great to get dimsum and chat with some actual Chinese friends (as opposed to the fake ones).
Ok I have to run now because we have an environmental law person coming to speak to our class tonight, but I gotta grab dinner first. I will update about thanksgiving after I have gorged myself on delicious food over the next couple days!
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Here's a great idea:
Leave your socks on your radiator when you go to take a shower so that when you come back, you can put them on and they are nice and warm. Like instant just-came-out-of-the-drier warmness, when you don't have a drier.
I know you were all worried, but you can breathe easy now: I registered successfully for my last semester of classes, though as J knows it took my cursing and threatening of NYUHome for this to happen. As for my current classes, Chinese is being annoying with a tingxie test everyday this week, but luckily I quite enjoy my Environmental class. My prof is cute and so so knowledgeable, so that he can actually field all of our random questions on the situation here in China. Also he is hopefully seeing if we can take a weekend trip to Tianjin (Beijing's "sister city" a one hour train ride to the east) so we can check out their environmental measures. That would be coooool. Especially if it were subsidized by our program (fingers crossed).
Oh yes, so next semester I am taking: History of Vietnam, a Marlowe seminar, Travel Writing, and an EAS class on Japanese literature from the 1990's. Hopefully all goes well. I am, most predictably, excited about the literature classes and not so much about the stupid Marlowe seminar I have to take. Also starting to get anxious about what I'll do in terms of an internship/job for the spring, seeing as all I hear are scary things about the economy sucking and people getting laid off. Especially in publishing...
Which brings me to my last point: I want books for Christmas! This notice goes out to family and friends. I would buy some here but I'm already concerned about the weight of my suitcases going back, so I must refrain. So yeah, support Amazon or B&N or an indie bookstore and thereby support publishers, authors, agents, and my possibly future career... and of course make me happy for Christmas :) (I realize I might be early in posting this request but it was on my mind so I thought I'd put it out there before I forget).
I know you were all worried, but you can breathe easy now: I registered successfully for my last semester of classes, though as J knows it took my cursing and threatening of NYUHome for this to happen. As for my current classes, Chinese is being annoying with a tingxie test everyday this week, but luckily I quite enjoy my Environmental class. My prof is cute and so so knowledgeable, so that he can actually field all of our random questions on the situation here in China. Also he is hopefully seeing if we can take a weekend trip to Tianjin (Beijing's "sister city" a one hour train ride to the east) so we can check out their environmental measures. That would be coooool. Especially if it were subsidized by our program (fingers crossed).
Oh yes, so next semester I am taking: History of Vietnam, a Marlowe seminar, Travel Writing, and an EAS class on Japanese literature from the 1990's. Hopefully all goes well. I am, most predictably, excited about the literature classes and not so much about the stupid Marlowe seminar I have to take. Also starting to get anxious about what I'll do in terms of an internship/job for the spring, seeing as all I hear are scary things about the economy sucking and people getting laid off. Especially in publishing...
Which brings me to my last point: I want books for Christmas! This notice goes out to family and friends. I would buy some here but I'm already concerned about the weight of my suitcases going back, so I must refrain. So yeah, support Amazon or B&N or an indie bookstore and thereby support publishers, authors, agents, and my possibly future career... and of course make me happy for Christmas :) (I realize I might be early in posting this request but it was on my mind so I thought I'd put it out there before I forget).
Saturday, November 15, 2008
I can't remember where I left off...
But not to worry, we have heat so I'm not suffering so much now. I'm getting pretty lazy about these updates, I know, and I'm sorry. But I just had a long weekend of running around and fighting a battle with my stomach to not be stupid...
Lastly, I start a new class tomorrow about the environmental situation in China. Our professor is a very well-connected, knowledgeable guy but I just have my fingers crossed that he can actually teach a class well for 2 1/2 hours every day. I mean it's one thing to know a lot about what you do, but another to be able to teach a bunch of foreigners at 9.30 in the morning about how interesting this is. Also in class news, tomorrow I register for my final semester at NYU! Ah so sad! Fingers also crossed that that all works out, and once it does I will post my schedule proudly since I know you all care so much (but I'm not going to post it now, because I don't want to jinx anything. I have had bad luck scheduling in the past).
And yes, a couple days ago marked the beginning of the last month here in China. Which means I still have a lot to do and not a lot of time to do it... but also I'm thinking I'll be pretty glad to get home when I do. And then! Fortune of all fortunes! I'll get to stay home for about a month since Spring classes don't start until January 20th (got that, Mom??). Which leaves lots of time for eating some good home cooking.
Lastly, I start a new class tomorrow about the environmental situation in China. Our professor is a very well-connected, knowledgeable guy but I just have my fingers crossed that he can actually teach a class well for 2 1/2 hours every day. I mean it's one thing to know a lot about what you do, but another to be able to teach a bunch of foreigners at 9.30 in the morning about how interesting this is. Also in class news, tomorrow I register for my final semester at NYU! Ah so sad! Fingers also crossed that that all works out, and once it does I will post my schedule proudly since I know you all care so much (but I'm not going to post it now, because I don't want to jinx anything. I have had bad luck scheduling in the past).
And yes, a couple days ago marked the beginning of the last month here in China. Which means I still have a lot to do and not a lot of time to do it... but also I'm thinking I'll be pretty glad to get home when I do. And then! Fortune of all fortunes! I'll get to stay home for about a month since Spring classes don't start until January 20th (got that, Mom??). Which leaves lots of time for eating some good home cooking.
Sunday, November 9, 2008
Dear Chinese Government,
I've been pretty wary of saying anything against you while I'm here this past semester, but I'm afraid this situation has just gotten too ridiculous. It is currently less than 40 degrees F outside right now, which means it is approximately (according to my calculations) about 40 degrees in my room, because we have no heat. Please, for the love of Buddha and Mao and the Olympics, turn on the heat!
In case you are wondering, I am currently wearing, as I prepare to go to bed:
2 pairs of socks
leggings
sweatpants
a long sleeved shirt
a tshirt
a hoodie
and and contemplating wearing a scarf and earmuffs in order to get my beauty rest.
This is not natural! Also, not fair that Qinghua already has their heat on! This is not communism! We should all either have, or have not... or am I getting my ideologies mixed up here?
In other news, I have safely returned to Beijing and have a crapload of work to catch up on. That combined with the freezing factor means I probably won't be updating in full until the end of the week. I know you'll all be waiting with bated breath: Will she wake up one morning a frozen popsicle? Or will she someday post the hundreds of pictures she took in the past two weeks? Stay tuned...
In case you are wondering, I am currently wearing, as I prepare to go to bed:
2 pairs of socks
leggings
sweatpants
a long sleeved shirt
a tshirt
a hoodie
and and contemplating wearing a scarf and earmuffs in order to get my beauty rest.
This is not natural! Also, not fair that Qinghua already has their heat on! This is not communism! We should all either have, or have not... or am I getting my ideologies mixed up here?
In other news, I have safely returned to Beijing and have a crapload of work to catch up on. That combined with the freezing factor means I probably won't be updating in full until the end of the week. I know you'll all be waiting with bated breath: Will she wake up one morning a frozen popsicle? Or will she someday post the hundreds of pictures she took in the past two weeks? Stay tuned...
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Ironic?
That I am currently in the Chinese city of Yan-an, where Mao Zedong solidified his position as leader of the Communist Party and basically rectified the Party as the sole controller of the Chinese State on the same day that America elects the first black man (actually, multi-racial) man to be the new leader of the self-professed leader of the free world?? Hmmm yes it's a little ironic.
Go Obama! We here all have high hopes for him. We're now just counting down the days until January when he can officially take up the post and hopefully start fixing our very much broken system. No pressure though.
But seriously, thanks America. I have had a little faith restored today. And I don't have to move to Canada in the foreseeable future.
Go Obama! We here all have high hopes for him. We're now just counting down the days until January when he can officially take up the post and hopefully start fixing our very much broken system. No pressure though.
But seriously, thanks America. I have had a little faith restored today. And I don't have to move to Canada in the foreseeable future.
Sunday, November 2, 2008
Internet cafes save my life
we had to postpone our trip to see the terra cotta warriors this afternoon on account of 1/3 of our group being sick sick sick. i'm thinking if 5 people are sick now, chances are the rest of us will be getting sick in the near future... but knock on wood that i'm still feeling fine. i find it a little uncanny that i haven't even had la duzi for a month or so now. mad props to my immune system, and i hope i'm not jinxing myself by typing this now. (unrelatedly, my shift key is sticky so i apologize for the lack of capitalization).
if you are following along, you will know that i am currently reporting from xi'an, the former central capital of china during several important decades. today it's most famously known for the terra cotta warriors i mentioned up there ^ and so far it's really cool. the xi'aners, unlike the beijingers, recognize the importance of a good city wall, so theirs is still intact and completely surrounds the center of the city. this morning we took a bike ride around it, for 13 km! it was pretty intense, though not really, but definitely a good work out. this afternoon i hope to visit the muslim market and buy some cool souveniers.
xi'an also has some really interesting food. all the street food looks good and some of it we've never seen before. last night's dinner was a real experience: we wandered out of our hotel and into this restuarant where everyone appeared to be eating some kind of soup. so we sit down and ask the waiters for a menu and then they repeat, really loudly "CAI DAN?????" so that the whole restuarant goes silent and stares at us. as if they weren't staring already. oops. but anyway, the caidan is posted on the wall behind the register in the front of the restuarant, and you're supposed to just go up there and order. this is what we did, not really having any idea what we were getting except that it was some kind of soup. an old man stopped me on my way back to the table and pointed at his soup telling me it was very tasty (in chinese). so i had high expectations, you see.
turns out we got the "common" soup, which had tofu, mushrooms, quail eggs, and noodles. but what made it really interesting was that eat soup came with a small piece of flat bread, kinda like a pita, and before they poured the soup you're supposed to break the bread into small pieces and then they pour the soup over it. realllllly strange but it tasted good. and i had never seen anything like it. i still don't know who's food it is (some kind of minority group maybe?) but the whole thing was quite an experience.
if you are following along, you will know that i am currently reporting from xi'an, the former central capital of china during several important decades. today it's most famously known for the terra cotta warriors i mentioned up there ^ and so far it's really cool. the xi'aners, unlike the beijingers, recognize the importance of a good city wall, so theirs is still intact and completely surrounds the center of the city. this morning we took a bike ride around it, for 13 km! it was pretty intense, though not really, but definitely a good work out. this afternoon i hope to visit the muslim market and buy some cool souveniers.
xi'an also has some really interesting food. all the street food looks good and some of it we've never seen before. last night's dinner was a real experience: we wandered out of our hotel and into this restuarant where everyone appeared to be eating some kind of soup. so we sit down and ask the waiters for a menu and then they repeat, really loudly "CAI DAN?????" so that the whole restuarant goes silent and stares at us. as if they weren't staring already. oops. but anyway, the caidan is posted on the wall behind the register in the front of the restuarant, and you're supposed to just go up there and order. this is what we did, not really having any idea what we were getting except that it was some kind of soup. an old man stopped me on my way back to the table and pointed at his soup telling me it was very tasty (in chinese). so i had high expectations, you see.
turns out we got the "common" soup, which had tofu, mushrooms, quail eggs, and noodles. but what made it really interesting was that eat soup came with a small piece of flat bread, kinda like a pita, and before they poured the soup you're supposed to break the bread into small pieces and then they pour the soup over it. realllllly strange but it tasted good. and i had never seen anything like it. i still don't know who's food it is (some kind of minority group maybe?) but the whole thing was quite an experience.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Quick post from Nanjing
Heyyyy sorry it's been so long but I just wanted to let everyone know that I am currently safe in my hotel in Nanjing. Safe because I am not outside breathing the terrible terrible polluted air, which turns out is worse than Beijing's. Who knew?
What we've done so far since being here:
Sunday: arrived in Nanjing and had an afternoon tour of a couple city neighborhoods, including where the Nationalist party lived in the 1920's, the presidential palace, and the 1912 expat bar district. Then we found a cute Mexican place for dinner and sat outside eating burritos.
Monday: In the morning we had a field trip to the Nanjing National Seminary. Aren't you proud, mum and dad? I got a Christian religious experience in China! Who would've thunk. After that we headed up the hill in the middle of the city to Sun Yat-sen's mausoleum. This was really cool but also hard work... from a distance it doesn't look like a big climb to the top, but as you go higher the stairs get steeper. Definitely a must-see for any tourist to Nanjing though.
Tuesday: Went to Suzhou! We figured it was close enough for a day trip but actually it was a three hour ride both ways. However, totally worth it. Suzhou is a much smaller city with lots of cute canals and famous gardens. I liked actually be able to walk everywhere. And we went shopping. But I didn't buy anything. If anyone wants a scarf though, they should let me know. You can pretend it's from Suzhou...
Today: In the morning we had a nice exchange with some volunteer students from Nanjing University. We were supposed to have one on one conversations, but somehow I ended up with three students and myself, haha. They were really nice. We were supposed to talk about Nanjing and its history, and how that ties to Chinese nationalism, but mostly we just asked each other random questions. Then they showed me around their campus. Good times, except it's all rainy today. We thought it an appropriate atmosphere to spend the afternoon at the Nanjing Massacre Museum, which is where I just returned from. Overall I thought the memorial was very well done, if a bit overbearing at times. But another must-see for any tourist with knowledge of Nanjing history.
Tonight IES is treating us to dinner at the Confucius Temple, which is pretty awesome. Tomorrow we take a day trip to Zhenjiang, which may or may not be too interesting (my professor's never actually been there, so who knows what we're getting ourselves into). Then Friday, Halloween, we'll be on a train to Xi'an so no trick or treating for us. Bummer. But overall the trip is going well so far. Only two kids have gotten food poisoning already (although one at a hotdog from a street cart so really, he was asking for it). I'm trying to be thrifty with my money but seriously if anyone wants me to get a souvenir from any of these places, let me know! I'll check my messages on Friday before we leave but after that I can't promise much correspondence. Happy Halloween in advance!
What we've done so far since being here:
Sunday: arrived in Nanjing and had an afternoon tour of a couple city neighborhoods, including where the Nationalist party lived in the 1920's, the presidential palace, and the 1912 expat bar district. Then we found a cute Mexican place for dinner and sat outside eating burritos.
Monday: In the morning we had a field trip to the Nanjing National Seminary. Aren't you proud, mum and dad? I got a Christian religious experience in China! Who would've thunk. After that we headed up the hill in the middle of the city to Sun Yat-sen's mausoleum. This was really cool but also hard work... from a distance it doesn't look like a big climb to the top, but as you go higher the stairs get steeper. Definitely a must-see for any tourist to Nanjing though.
Tuesday: Went to Suzhou! We figured it was close enough for a day trip but actually it was a three hour ride both ways. However, totally worth it. Suzhou is a much smaller city with lots of cute canals and famous gardens. I liked actually be able to walk everywhere. And we went shopping. But I didn't buy anything. If anyone wants a scarf though, they should let me know. You can pretend it's from Suzhou...
Today: In the morning we had a nice exchange with some volunteer students from Nanjing University. We were supposed to have one on one conversations, but somehow I ended up with three students and myself, haha. They were really nice. We were supposed to talk about Nanjing and its history, and how that ties to Chinese nationalism, but mostly we just asked each other random questions. Then they showed me around their campus. Good times, except it's all rainy today. We thought it an appropriate atmosphere to spend the afternoon at the Nanjing Massacre Museum, which is where I just returned from. Overall I thought the memorial was very well done, if a bit overbearing at times. But another must-see for any tourist with knowledge of Nanjing history.
Tonight IES is treating us to dinner at the Confucius Temple, which is pretty awesome. Tomorrow we take a day trip to Zhenjiang, which may or may not be too interesting (my professor's never actually been there, so who knows what we're getting ourselves into). Then Friday, Halloween, we'll be on a train to Xi'an so no trick or treating for us. Bummer. But overall the trip is going well so far. Only two kids have gotten food poisoning already (although one at a hotdog from a street cart so really, he was asking for it). I'm trying to be thrifty with my money but seriously if anyone wants me to get a souvenir from any of these places, let me know! I'll check my messages on Friday before we leave but after that I can't promise much correspondence. Happy Halloween in advance!
Thursday, October 23, 2008
Long Overdue but it's Midterm Week So Yeah
Yesterday night whilst I was doing my homework/watching House/studying Chinese/watching Gossip Girl I heard a strange loud noise outside. No, it was not the ubiquitous drone of construction, turns out it was just some really really crazy wind. Thankfully that dafeng blew all the gross pollution away that had been plaguing our air all week. So I woke up and was overjoyed to see blue sky and mountains! But then not so much when I discovered that it is now about 50 degrees outside, plus still windy.
It's crazy to think that just this Sunday I was chilling outside in my bathing suit at the hotsprings. And the day before that, I was rowing a boat in a tank top across the man-made lake at the Summer Palace. Now I'm breaking out my boots and coat and wondering if I'll need to buy another down coat while I'm here. We leave for Nanjing Saturday night and it should be a bit warmer there, but as our two-week trip for history class progresses, we're going to move farther north and it'll be pretty darn cold by the end of it. Oh, then also we're thinking about going to Harbin for our second long weekend in November, and that'll be the coldest of all. Think ice sculptures and... practically Russia.
But I'm getting ahead of myself here. First I would like to complain that planning trips in China is HARD. Like, it should be easy and relatively cheap, but I've mostly given up because the resources just aren't there. You'd think if I can plan a 10 day 3 city multiple one-way plane ticket trip in Europe (including booking hostels and researching things to do in those cities) I could figure out some decent plans for travel, and follow through. But no. The planning is there, the execution is excruciating. So that's why last weekend we had four days and yet pretty much everyone on our program ended up staying in Beijing (except the boys who went to Qingdao to drink beer). Which was fine, but for the next weekend we all really want to go somewhere cool (China, actually, has many of these places) and I really really hope it works out.
So while we were here in Beijing we made the best of it and took a river cruise up the canal to the Summer Palace. We were slightly disappointed because 1) we had to change boats 3 times in like one hour 2) the boat didn't actually take us into the Summer Palace lake, like we imagined, but dropped us off right at the South Gate. Took away some of our dreams. And as it was our second time going there, it was cool but not thrilling. I'm glad Cheng made us rent a rowboat though, because that made the experience worth it and was quite fun.
I had wanted to go to the hot springs before we got here, but wasn't sure how I was going to make that happen. Luckily my friend Rosa really wanted to go too, and together we figured out how to get there and made it happen. Rosa, Vanessa, Cheng, and Cheng's friend from Qinghua Laura went out to the crazy outskirts of Beijing. We took the 5 Subway line all the way to the end, got off, then searched for a taxi for awhile (all that we could see were black cabs and we weren't chancing our luck). The taxi was 27 kuai and about 15-20 minutes farther north to the resort. When we got there we were told there were indoor and outdoor hot springs, and that the indoor ones had more things to do.
Problem was, the indoor hotsprings was basically just an indoor water amusement park, complete with a rapid river with intertubes, slides, and fountains. Not exactly what we were looking for. So we went outside to check out the outdoor ones and found them much more to our liking (and cheaper!). Of course the water in most of the pools (there were several small ones with different water types: salt, Chinese medicine, rose, tea etc) was waaaay too hot. 40-42 celcius! I couldn't even stick my foot in! But some were actually really nice and it was good just to get in the hot water and relax. Then we discovered our entrance ticket included a massage and that made things all the better!
Unfortunately Monday had to come and this week has been really busy in terms of work. We just finished out Chinese midterm and now, since we're going on this trip for history, we won't have Chinese class for two weeks! Crazy. But it sounds like we're going to be very busy with history stuff. Oh! And I am most excited that while we're in Nanjing we're going to take a day to visit Suzhou. My tutor went to school there and she told me it's really cool. We're also taking a day to visit Zhengjiang (I think is the name) and then moving on to Xi'an and Yan'an. I'm definitely looking forward to it but I don't know how good the Internet access will be while I'm there. I'll try to update whenever possible. In the meantime, have fun celebrating Halloween and the election results... I'll be on a train somewhere in the Chinese countryside.
It's crazy to think that just this Sunday I was chilling outside in my bathing suit at the hotsprings. And the day before that, I was rowing a boat in a tank top across the man-made lake at the Summer Palace. Now I'm breaking out my boots and coat and wondering if I'll need to buy another down coat while I'm here. We leave for Nanjing Saturday night and it should be a bit warmer there, but as our two-week trip for history class progresses, we're going to move farther north and it'll be pretty darn cold by the end of it. Oh, then also we're thinking about going to Harbin for our second long weekend in November, and that'll be the coldest of all. Think ice sculptures and... practically Russia.
But I'm getting ahead of myself here. First I would like to complain that planning trips in China is HARD. Like, it should be easy and relatively cheap, but I've mostly given up because the resources just aren't there. You'd think if I can plan a 10 day 3 city multiple one-way plane ticket trip in Europe (including booking hostels and researching things to do in those cities) I could figure out some decent plans for travel, and follow through. But no. The planning is there, the execution is excruciating. So that's why last weekend we had four days and yet pretty much everyone on our program ended up staying in Beijing (except the boys who went to Qingdao to drink beer). Which was fine, but for the next weekend we all really want to go somewhere cool (China, actually, has many of these places) and I really really hope it works out.
So while we were here in Beijing we made the best of it and took a river cruise up the canal to the Summer Palace. We were slightly disappointed because 1) we had to change boats 3 times in like one hour 2) the boat didn't actually take us into the Summer Palace lake, like we imagined, but dropped us off right at the South Gate. Took away some of our dreams. And as it was our second time going there, it was cool but not thrilling. I'm glad Cheng made us rent a rowboat though, because that made the experience worth it and was quite fun.
I had wanted to go to the hot springs before we got here, but wasn't sure how I was going to make that happen. Luckily my friend Rosa really wanted to go too, and together we figured out how to get there and made it happen. Rosa, Vanessa, Cheng, and Cheng's friend from Qinghua Laura went out to the crazy outskirts of Beijing. We took the 5 Subway line all the way to the end, got off, then searched for a taxi for awhile (all that we could see were black cabs and we weren't chancing our luck). The taxi was 27 kuai and about 15-20 minutes farther north to the resort. When we got there we were told there were indoor and outdoor hot springs, and that the indoor ones had more things to do.
Problem was, the indoor hotsprings was basically just an indoor water amusement park, complete with a rapid river with intertubes, slides, and fountains. Not exactly what we were looking for. So we went outside to check out the outdoor ones and found them much more to our liking (and cheaper!). Of course the water in most of the pools (there were several small ones with different water types: salt, Chinese medicine, rose, tea etc) was waaaay too hot. 40-42 celcius! I couldn't even stick my foot in! But some were actually really nice and it was good just to get in the hot water and relax. Then we discovered our entrance ticket included a massage and that made things all the better!
Unfortunately Monday had to come and this week has been really busy in terms of work. We just finished out Chinese midterm and now, since we're going on this trip for history, we won't have Chinese class for two weeks! Crazy. But it sounds like we're going to be very busy with history stuff. Oh! And I am most excited that while we're in Nanjing we're going to take a day to visit Suzhou. My tutor went to school there and she told me it's really cool. We're also taking a day to visit Zhengjiang (I think is the name) and then moving on to Xi'an and Yan'an. I'm definitely looking forward to it but I don't know how good the Internet access will be while I'm there. I'll try to update whenever possible. In the meantime, have fun celebrating Halloween and the election results... I'll be on a train somewhere in the Chinese countryside.
Friday, October 17, 2008
Live from Tsinghua University
That's right, I'm posting from Cheng's dorm at Qinghua while he makes himself pretty before we go out to eat. Yesterday we discovered that this restaurant/cafeteria place right next to his dorm serves individual style hotpots and they are delicious! For 5 kuai you get the boiling soup thing, and 5 more kuai gets you a plate of raw meat to cook. Vegetables, noodles, and beer are all 3 kuai each, so basically, it's an afforable affair and all around good time.
The past two days I've had off from classes, which has been wonderful. I could have gone somewhere far away but I was too lazy to plan a trip and get train tickets and all that. Besides, Beijing has so much to offer that it's nice to kick it around here, especially when I don't have to worry about having a tingxie in Chinese class the next day.
So we've been chilling like villians, except the real villian today is the air pollution. It's one of those days where "fresh air" outside simply does not exist. Hopefully it'll clear up soon because it sure puts a damper on sight-seeing when you can't actually see anything.
In other news, Wednesday our program got to meet a bunch of Chinese BFSU students from the English department, and we had a grand old networking and chatting session. The girls I talked to were all really nice and seem very chill. They all seemed to enjoy watching movies and most of us had the same taste in films, which is to say, we all like Johnny Depp. Haha. But seriously, we exchanged info and I'm hoping to get together with some of them in the future and a) eat some food b) watch some movies c) go shopping d) see some sights e) all of the above plus chatting.
Unfortunately I forgot my camera once again but maybe I will talk Cheng into using his fancy camera phone to take some shots of our dinner tonight, since we're going to hotpot it up again. P.S. I might need to change my Chinese name. More to come on that later...
The past two days I've had off from classes, which has been wonderful. I could have gone somewhere far away but I was too lazy to plan a trip and get train tickets and all that. Besides, Beijing has so much to offer that it's nice to kick it around here, especially when I don't have to worry about having a tingxie in Chinese class the next day.
So we've been chilling like villians, except the real villian today is the air pollution. It's one of those days where "fresh air" outside simply does not exist. Hopefully it'll clear up soon because it sure puts a damper on sight-seeing when you can't actually see anything.
In other news, Wednesday our program got to meet a bunch of Chinese BFSU students from the English department, and we had a grand old networking and chatting session. The girls I talked to were all really nice and seem very chill. They all seemed to enjoy watching movies and most of us had the same taste in films, which is to say, we all like Johnny Depp. Haha. But seriously, we exchanged info and I'm hoping to get together with some of them in the future and a) eat some food b) watch some movies c) go shopping d) see some sights e) all of the above plus chatting.
Unfortunately I forgot my camera once again but maybe I will talk Cheng into using his fancy camera phone to take some shots of our dinner tonight, since we're going to hotpot it up again. P.S. I might need to change my Chinese name. More to come on that later...
Monday, October 13, 2008
I got a package!
Hurray my name was on the board today and I got a wonderful gift in the mail from the parents :) It was like Halloween come early. Chocolate is actually really expensive here, since it's all imported, so I'm glad I have a mianfei stash now. Though I should really be laying off the sweets... you would think since being here I've been eating more healthy, but I actually have been snacking more since it's just so darn cheap! I should really be better to my body but it's funny how I can rationalize things since I'm in a different country.
This weekend there was a trip to the Great Wall but more people signed up than could actually go, so I gave up my spot to a friend in order to spend the weekend chilling in Beijing with Cheng. So while my friends were hiking 10km up and down that darn wall, Cheng and I were getting our feet massaged at Sanlitun :) We both bought fake Adidas shoes on Friday and then wore them all around on Saturday, so I think the massage was well deserved. Fake shoes just aren't as comfy as the real thing, although they still look cool.
We wandered around the shopping mall across from the Sanlitun bar street and it was pretty much like Easton x10. Bigger, more stores, awesome architecture... of course we didn't want to buy anything since you get get stuff at the Silk Market for cheaper, but it was still cool to walk around. It's still under construction so give it five years (assuming China's economy continues to improve) and it'll be a huge attraction. Oh, not to mention it has some of China's best Western food restaurants, including two burger places and Element Fresh, where I'm going to have to go in a few weeks when I'm really craving a salad. And we had Coldstone! Guess how much.
Go on, guess how much. Consider that your average icecream cone from the supermarket costs 4 kuai at most... but that most Western food places have prices comparable to their actual American prices...
Ok I'll admit it: I spent 27 kuai on a small scoop of banana ice cream with cake and chocolate fudge and whipped creap inside. It had to be done! I could not resist! And now, never again!
Next week is midterms already and I'm pretty depressed. That means the semester is already half over?? I feel like there just isn't enough time here. China is just so... big. Huge. Enormous. And there's so much to see. But I know that I have to go back to NYC is January and face the real world, or at least graduate and then face the real world. The more days that pass the more I'm dreading it! I want to stay in this crazy Chinese world of not working, eating lots, learning Chinese, having random conversations with people wanting to practice English (except for the weirdo on the bus, he was not cool), and basically not facing reality. Don't make me go back to American dollars, pleeeeease!
This weekend there was a trip to the Great Wall but more people signed up than could actually go, so I gave up my spot to a friend in order to spend the weekend chilling in Beijing with Cheng. So while my friends were hiking 10km up and down that darn wall, Cheng and I were getting our feet massaged at Sanlitun :) We both bought fake Adidas shoes on Friday and then wore them all around on Saturday, so I think the massage was well deserved. Fake shoes just aren't as comfy as the real thing, although they still look cool.
We wandered around the shopping mall across from the Sanlitun bar street and it was pretty much like Easton x10. Bigger, more stores, awesome architecture... of course we didn't want to buy anything since you get get stuff at the Silk Market for cheaper, but it was still cool to walk around. It's still under construction so give it five years (assuming China's economy continues to improve) and it'll be a huge attraction. Oh, not to mention it has some of China's best Western food restaurants, including two burger places and Element Fresh, where I'm going to have to go in a few weeks when I'm really craving a salad. And we had Coldstone! Guess how much.
Go on, guess how much. Consider that your average icecream cone from the supermarket costs 4 kuai at most... but that most Western food places have prices comparable to their actual American prices...
Ok I'll admit it: I spent 27 kuai on a small scoop of banana ice cream with cake and chocolate fudge and whipped creap inside. It had to be done! I could not resist! And now, never again!
Next week is midterms already and I'm pretty depressed. That means the semester is already half over?? I feel like there just isn't enough time here. China is just so... big. Huge. Enormous. And there's so much to see. But I know that I have to go back to NYC is January and face the real world, or at least graduate and then face the real world. The more days that pass the more I'm dreading it! I want to stay in this crazy Chinese world of not working, eating lots, learning Chinese, having random conversations with people wanting to practice English (except for the weirdo on the bus, he was not cool), and basically not facing reality. Don't make me go back to American dollars, pleeeeease!
Wednesday, October 8, 2008
Calligraphy club is awesome
Our campus was crazy crawling with people today. That's right, today the 8th of October all the Chinese students finally moved in to start classes. I thought Tsinghua started late, but seriously what have these Bei Wai kids been doing for the past month?? The Olympics are long over, and yeah there was that whole week-long national holiday last week but still. It's practically Christmas already and you're just starting?
Well at least it was a beautiful day out. Definitely the perfect fall weather, not too cold, sunny with blue skies, nice breeze... and us foreigners hiding out in our rooms so as not to be bombarded with friend requests. Ok I exaggerate BUT my friend tried to go outside to sit and read, but had to come back in after the 5th student asked for her number to practice speaking English. Oh the price of being exotically English-speaking.
Calligraphy club started tonight and even though we didn't paint a single stroke, I think it's pretty awesome already. The teacher is this 60 year old Beijinger who not only does wonderful calligraphy but is also a capable artist. Today he just gave us an intro into Chinese calligraphy, such as the names of the tools we're going to use and the different scripts that exist. That's right, as if Chinese characters weren't hard enough to learn already, there are 3 different ways to write them, provided you have to patience to study all that. Most people don't and can't, but those calligraphy scrolls sure look cool hanging on your walls. I'm pretty sure mine are going to be atrocious looking but at least this should help my stroke order awareness so that I can write faster/more accurately.
Work is piling up as next week is the end of our first block of classes. For our media class we had a photojournalist come in the other day and talk to us about his perspective on Chinese media. It was so so refreshing (and relieving) that he was really frank with us and acknowledged all the problems we had been discussing in class (government control, corruption etc). Actually it was really cool that I could mostly understand his Chinese even before our teacher translated (and I understood even more at calligraphy club today where there was no translation whatsoever). Go me! I don't need no Chinese roommate to improve my Chinese skills (though it wouldn't hurt, I know). ANYWAY back to media... well the sad truth is that freedom of speech here is a theory only, and unless the government personnel suddenly decide they need to kaifang China a little more, more and more Chinese are just going to turn to the Internet when they need real information. And yet journalist is still a desired profession because of it's benefits soooo again, a seemingly un-fixable paradox.
I'm about to admit something sad and true right here right now: I've become addicted to Desperate Housewives. I blame it on Chinese television, and its lack of interesting programming. This forces me to watch the one America program channel and one Sunday there was a DH marathon and well, the rest is history. So now I'm going to study my Chinese while getting my fill of terrible American suburban satire. Awesome.
Also, pics from Shanghai that I stole from other people:
Well at least it was a beautiful day out. Definitely the perfect fall weather, not too cold, sunny with blue skies, nice breeze... and us foreigners hiding out in our rooms so as not to be bombarded with friend requests. Ok I exaggerate BUT my friend tried to go outside to sit and read, but had to come back in after the 5th student asked for her number to practice speaking English. Oh the price of being exotically English-speaking.
Calligraphy club started tonight and even though we didn't paint a single stroke, I think it's pretty awesome already. The teacher is this 60 year old Beijinger who not only does wonderful calligraphy but is also a capable artist. Today he just gave us an intro into Chinese calligraphy, such as the names of the tools we're going to use and the different scripts that exist. That's right, as if Chinese characters weren't hard enough to learn already, there are 3 different ways to write them, provided you have to patience to study all that. Most people don't and can't, but those calligraphy scrolls sure look cool hanging on your walls. I'm pretty sure mine are going to be atrocious looking but at least this should help my stroke order awareness so that I can write faster/more accurately.
Work is piling up as next week is the end of our first block of classes. For our media class we had a photojournalist come in the other day and talk to us about his perspective on Chinese media. It was so so refreshing (and relieving) that he was really frank with us and acknowledged all the problems we had been discussing in class (government control, corruption etc). Actually it was really cool that I could mostly understand his Chinese even before our teacher translated (and I understood even more at calligraphy club today where there was no translation whatsoever). Go me! I don't need no Chinese roommate to improve my Chinese skills (though it wouldn't hurt, I know). ANYWAY back to media... well the sad truth is that freedom of speech here is a theory only, and unless the government personnel suddenly decide they need to kaifang China a little more, more and more Chinese are just going to turn to the Internet when they need real information. And yet journalist is still a desired profession because of it's benefits soooo again, a seemingly un-fixable paradox.
I'm about to admit something sad and true right here right now: I've become addicted to Desperate Housewives. I blame it on Chinese television, and its lack of interesting programming. This forces me to watch the one America program channel and one Sunday there was a DH marathon and well, the rest is history. So now I'm going to study my Chinese while getting my fill of terrible American suburban satire. Awesome.
Also, pics from Shanghai that I stole from other people:
Monday, October 6, 2008
And the rest
Thursday: Cynthia's mom and aunt and uncle picked me up from the West Gate and we drove down south of Tiananmen to Qianmen Dajie. It's a recently renovated street that makes up the southern axis from the center of the city that used to have cool buildings along its sides and a tram car that went up and down the street. Now the buildings have been re-done to look ancient and soon the shops that will open there will be feichang feichang expensive. There were already a couple open, including a bookstore and pharmacy, and only about two restaurants but they all had lines out the door.
One street over to the west, normal Chinese stores and small restuarants remain, and it has a much more authentic contemporary Beijing feel. BUT one more street beyond that used to be a huge maze of hutongs that have all been torn down. It was quite eerie to cross the overpass on the nearby highway, look back at the neighborhood we just walked near, and see a raized area with only a single crumbling house still standing. What will become of that hutong area? Judging from expectations from Qianmen Dajie, some pretty expensive housing will go in... but what became of the people who used to live there is a more interesting question.
Cynthia's mom had never been to Sanlitun, so we went there next (note this is pretty much on the opposite side of town). Had dinner at a classy and delicious restuarant (I think called 1949?) located behind a shopping center. Since it was removed from the main roads it was very quite and peaceful. And best yet, they specialized in roast duck! I don't know how I've gone a month living here and still hadn't eaten that, but I was soooo soo glad to shove all that delicious duck goodness in my face. Plus other wonderful morsels that I am drooling about while I remember them.
K. After dinner we walked around the Sanlitun shopping area and then found a bar playing some acceptable live music. Only... once the musicians took a break, some random scantily clad dancers came on the stage. One did a belly dance and looked extremely unhappy the entire time, and the other did a weird repetative techno thing in a shiny silver mini skirt and white gogo boots. Awkward. We drank our apple juice in various states of amusement and horror.
Unfortunately I had tons of homework to catch up on, and had to call it a night kinda early. But we definitely had some good conversation about Beijing (better than Shanghai! Best city in the world!) and journalism and I tried to use my Chinese but towards the end of the night, as the topics got deeper, abandoned that. But at least I answered preliminary questions to the best of my ability (except when Cynthia's uncle tried to ask me how long I was in Beijing for... I blame the Beijing accent but still feel like a failure).
Fast foward to Friday: Girls night out at Nanluoguxiang. Can't get enough of this place. Love it every time. Must go back. Shopped, ate Indian food, got our nails done, and then went back and watched Gossip Girl. Good times.
The rest of the weekend was spent at Carrefour and then Wudaokou. Saturday was Cheng's friend's bday so we ate Indian food again and it made me feel drunk it was so good. Wish there was an Indian restuarant around my campus but I digress... then we went to La Bamba and had a couple drinks (their happy hour lasts till 11pm, how amazing is that?). But it was cold and rainy so I headed back early after breathing in too much second hand smoke.
Sunday I went back to Wudaokou to meet Cheng for some serious shopping. I haven't bought anything since being here except food, entrance tickets to tourist things, and transporation! So I got myself a yellow cardigan and a silver scarf, both from this little place with a bunch of even littler shops selling cute clothes, jewelry, and accessories. Next shopping destination: the Silk Market.
Ok so now I'm caught up! Tonight I've been catching up on other things, reading the news, doing some research for my project, watching the Daily Show. You know how it goes. This week is starting to look busy already, so this might be my only night to just chill. And speaking of chill, it's freakin cold here already! Too bad the Chinese socialist state doesn't turn on the heaters until October 20th. Until then I guess I'll be sleeping in my sweatshirt and taking extra hot showers so as to steam up the freezing-tile bathroom. But I shouldn't complain because after all the rain this weekend today was a true blue sky day, and nothing beats a fall blue sky day.
One street over to the west, normal Chinese stores and small restuarants remain, and it has a much more authentic contemporary Beijing feel. BUT one more street beyond that used to be a huge maze of hutongs that have all been torn down. It was quite eerie to cross the overpass on the nearby highway, look back at the neighborhood we just walked near, and see a raized area with only a single crumbling house still standing. What will become of that hutong area? Judging from expectations from Qianmen Dajie, some pretty expensive housing will go in... but what became of the people who used to live there is a more interesting question.
Cynthia's mom had never been to Sanlitun, so we went there next (note this is pretty much on the opposite side of town). Had dinner at a classy and delicious restuarant (I think called 1949?) located behind a shopping center. Since it was removed from the main roads it was very quite and peaceful. And best yet, they specialized in roast duck! I don't know how I've gone a month living here and still hadn't eaten that, but I was soooo soo glad to shove all that delicious duck goodness in my face. Plus other wonderful morsels that I am drooling about while I remember them.
K. After dinner we walked around the Sanlitun shopping area and then found a bar playing some acceptable live music. Only... once the musicians took a break, some random scantily clad dancers came on the stage. One did a belly dance and looked extremely unhappy the entire time, and the other did a weird repetative techno thing in a shiny silver mini skirt and white gogo boots. Awkward. We drank our apple juice in various states of amusement and horror.
Unfortunately I had tons of homework to catch up on, and had to call it a night kinda early. But we definitely had some good conversation about Beijing (better than Shanghai! Best city in the world!) and journalism and I tried to use my Chinese but towards the end of the night, as the topics got deeper, abandoned that. But at least I answered preliminary questions to the best of my ability (except when Cynthia's uncle tried to ask me how long I was in Beijing for... I blame the Beijing accent but still feel like a failure).
Fast foward to Friday: Girls night out at Nanluoguxiang. Can't get enough of this place. Love it every time. Must go back. Shopped, ate Indian food, got our nails done, and then went back and watched Gossip Girl. Good times.
The rest of the weekend was spent at Carrefour and then Wudaokou. Saturday was Cheng's friend's bday so we ate Indian food again and it made me feel drunk it was so good. Wish there was an Indian restuarant around my campus but I digress... then we went to La Bamba and had a couple drinks (their happy hour lasts till 11pm, how amazing is that?). But it was cold and rainy so I headed back early after breathing in too much second hand smoke.
Sunday I went back to Wudaokou to meet Cheng for some serious shopping. I haven't bought anything since being here except food, entrance tickets to tourist things, and transporation! So I got myself a yellow cardigan and a silver scarf, both from this little place with a bunch of even littler shops selling cute clothes, jewelry, and accessories. Next shopping destination: the Silk Market.
Ok so now I'm caught up! Tonight I've been catching up on other things, reading the news, doing some research for my project, watching the Daily Show. You know how it goes. This week is starting to look busy already, so this might be my only night to just chill. And speaking of chill, it's freakin cold here already! Too bad the Chinese socialist state doesn't turn on the heaters until October 20th. Until then I guess I'll be sleeping in my sweatshirt and taking extra hot showers so as to steam up the freezing-tile bathroom. But I shouldn't complain because after all the rain this weekend today was a true blue sky day, and nothing beats a fall blue sky day.
Saturday, October 4, 2008
And now, as promised...
I'll try to keep this recap of Shanghai as brief and enjoyable as possible.
On Saturday we arrived bright and early via the hard sleeper train. Note to Chinese smokers: smoking in-between cars still makes the entire car smell! Also, if the train does not arrive at the station until 8am, why does everyone still get up at 6am? Not necessary.
Our first item on the agenda was to go on field trips for our classes, so our media class went to the Youth News Group (which publishes several youth newspapers and a magazine) and then jetted over to Shanghai TV where we wandered around their news set. Both were pretty predictable: the newspaper offices were poorly decorated and employees dressed casually, though this being China and the newspaper having once been founded/supported by Mao himself, the journalists were all pretty conservative in their viewpoints. We didn't get to talk to any people at the TV station so I'm not sure on their views, but it was clear that working in TV is much more glamorous and higher paid (obviously). There was nothing exciting to report except that STV recently launched a new channel called SC1 that basically only shows foreign TV shows because they are much more exciting than any Chinese programs. (This is sadly true. Chinese TV consists of "news", period dramas, bad variety shows, and music concerts).
After that we had dinner and then were free until Monday morning. Naturally we went down to the Bund and took many many photographs while we were harassed by many many salespeople. Then we walked up Nanjing Road, which is like the Wangfujin area of Shanghai so it has lots of fancy shops (but not too high end). We got to the endish, had a beer, and called it a night.
Sunday we had lots of plans. First stop: Shanghai Museum at the People's Square. It was very well done, kinda small, but free so it was worth it. All Chinese ancient artwork and basically I wanted to steal the entire ceramic exhibit. The hall of minorities was pretty cool too, especially the map that showed all 50 of the minorities and which part of China they live in. Yes, I am a nerd. Yes, I really want to go to Yunnan.
Anyway then we walked down Huaihai Road which is the 5th Ave of Shanghai. We found a little French deli in a nice mall and I had a tuna panini for lunch. Amazing! So we continued our pursuit of French things in Shanghai by heading south to the old French concession. On our way we stopped at Fuxing Park and ended up staying there for a couple hours because it was just so beautiful. The best/strangest part was when we sat on the grass playing spoons and all these Chinese people started gathering around us, just leaning over and staring at our game. I guess they were trying to figure out what we were doing bc when we started playing Egyptian ratscrew they left for more interesting sights, saying they already knew that game. Weirdddd!
The bestest bestest part of the day was stumbling upon a little area called Tianzifang in the French Concession. It's a slice of old Shanghai with all these cool boutiques, coffee shops, and bars. I bought a journal that I bargained down two whole kuai and got some extra cards thrown in. My skills are astounding, I know. Well unfortunately although this was undoutbedly the coolest place ever, we had plans to meet up with Cathy (my studying-in-Shanghai pengyou) for dinner near the Pearl Tower, so we had to get back to the subway.
May I just warn anyone needing to take the subway from People's Square at 5.30pm that this is probably going to be the most ridiculous too-many-people-in-one-underground-area experience of your life. But we made it, and we made it on time, and then we had a delicious lunch at the high class shopping mall opposite the Pearl Tower. After dinner we wanted to go up the tower but it turned out to be a 150 yuan fee, so that didn't happen. And we wanted to find another building to go up but they were all on the other side of the river, so alas we called it a night.
Monday we had class in the morning, wherein several Shanghai university journalism students stopped by and told us how great and propaganda-full the Chinese media is. And by tell us I mean they showed us with their blatant acknowledgement that journalists are the mouthpieces of the government... and no one cares. Awesome for the future of Chinese media, right?
Basically the entire class I was thinking: can we please leave so I can go shopping now? K thanks. So once we were let out we headed over to the most famous tourist area in Shanghai: the Yu Gardens. It's a really old maze of gardens surrounded by a huge bazaar full of people, overpriced shops, stinky tofu, and more people. Needless to say after all the hype I was not overly impressed, and though the gardens themselves were cool, the hoardes of tourist groups clogging up the paths kinda ruined the mood. Also I am sad to report that the American tourists were terribly easy to spot because they were both poorly dressed and overweight. Sigh.
We accidentally walked down Old Shanghai Road on our way out in search of a taxi, and it was pretty cool. The shops were much more Chinese and it seemed like normal (Shanghai?) people actually shopped there, instead of other Chinese people on holiday. Skipping forward in time... we headed back out later to meet Cathy for dinner near Nanjing East Rd and had some yummy Singaporean food. Then we had some drinks at a couple bars, went in search of a dance club and failed miserably, and went back home. After all the hype about Shanghai bars and the clubbing scene, either we really struck out or the scene actually isn't all that it's cracked up to be.
Quickly, I will get to the end of this too-long recap: Next day took the D bullet train to Nanjing. Had 7ish hours to kill there so went into the city center and walked around the giant shopping area. Bought two Chinese books: Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and Harry Potter. Actually Charlie is a pretty easy read... good to know I have the Chinese reading level equivalent to an elementary school child. Then took the soft sleeper back to Beijing where we arrived Wednesday morning to witness the throngs of Chinese tour groups descending upon Tiananmen for the National Holiday. You can't get away from the tourists, you really can't.
Final note: Internet is down momentarily so further posting will commence once it has been fixed. Hopefully within a day but I can't make any promises.
On Saturday we arrived bright and early via the hard sleeper train. Note to Chinese smokers: smoking in-between cars still makes the entire car smell! Also, if the train does not arrive at the station until 8am, why does everyone still get up at 6am? Not necessary.
Our first item on the agenda was to go on field trips for our classes, so our media class went to the Youth News Group (which publishes several youth newspapers and a magazine) and then jetted over to Shanghai TV where we wandered around their news set. Both were pretty predictable: the newspaper offices were poorly decorated and employees dressed casually, though this being China and the newspaper having once been founded/supported by Mao himself, the journalists were all pretty conservative in their viewpoints. We didn't get to talk to any people at the TV station so I'm not sure on their views, but it was clear that working in TV is much more glamorous and higher paid (obviously). There was nothing exciting to report except that STV recently launched a new channel called SC1 that basically only shows foreign TV shows because they are much more exciting than any Chinese programs. (This is sadly true. Chinese TV consists of "news", period dramas, bad variety shows, and music concerts).
After that we had dinner and then were free until Monday morning. Naturally we went down to the Bund and took many many photographs while we were harassed by many many salespeople. Then we walked up Nanjing Road, which is like the Wangfujin area of Shanghai so it has lots of fancy shops (but not too high end). We got to the endish, had a beer, and called it a night.
Sunday we had lots of plans. First stop: Shanghai Museum at the People's Square. It was very well done, kinda small, but free so it was worth it. All Chinese ancient artwork and basically I wanted to steal the entire ceramic exhibit. The hall of minorities was pretty cool too, especially the map that showed all 50 of the minorities and which part of China they live in. Yes, I am a nerd. Yes, I really want to go to Yunnan.
Anyway then we walked down Huaihai Road which is the 5th Ave of Shanghai. We found a little French deli in a nice mall and I had a tuna panini for lunch. Amazing! So we continued our pursuit of French things in Shanghai by heading south to the old French concession. On our way we stopped at Fuxing Park and ended up staying there for a couple hours because it was just so beautiful. The best/strangest part was when we sat on the grass playing spoons and all these Chinese people started gathering around us, just leaning over and staring at our game. I guess they were trying to figure out what we were doing bc when we started playing Egyptian ratscrew they left for more interesting sights, saying they already knew that game. Weirdddd!
The bestest bestest part of the day was stumbling upon a little area called Tianzifang in the French Concession. It's a slice of old Shanghai with all these cool boutiques, coffee shops, and bars. I bought a journal that I bargained down two whole kuai and got some extra cards thrown in. My skills are astounding, I know. Well unfortunately although this was undoutbedly the coolest place ever, we had plans to meet up with Cathy (my studying-in-Shanghai pengyou) for dinner near the Pearl Tower, so we had to get back to the subway.
May I just warn anyone needing to take the subway from People's Square at 5.30pm that this is probably going to be the most ridiculous too-many-people-in-one-underground-area experience of your life. But we made it, and we made it on time, and then we had a delicious lunch at the high class shopping mall opposite the Pearl Tower. After dinner we wanted to go up the tower but it turned out to be a 150 yuan fee, so that didn't happen. And we wanted to find another building to go up but they were all on the other side of the river, so alas we called it a night.
Monday we had class in the morning, wherein several Shanghai university journalism students stopped by and told us how great and propaganda-full the Chinese media is. And by tell us I mean they showed us with their blatant acknowledgement that journalists are the mouthpieces of the government... and no one cares. Awesome for the future of Chinese media, right?
Basically the entire class I was thinking: can we please leave so I can go shopping now? K thanks. So once we were let out we headed over to the most famous tourist area in Shanghai: the Yu Gardens. It's a really old maze of gardens surrounded by a huge bazaar full of people, overpriced shops, stinky tofu, and more people. Needless to say after all the hype I was not overly impressed, and though the gardens themselves were cool, the hoardes of tourist groups clogging up the paths kinda ruined the mood. Also I am sad to report that the American tourists were terribly easy to spot because they were both poorly dressed and overweight. Sigh.
We accidentally walked down Old Shanghai Road on our way out in search of a taxi, and it was pretty cool. The shops were much more Chinese and it seemed like normal (Shanghai?) people actually shopped there, instead of other Chinese people on holiday. Skipping forward in time... we headed back out later to meet Cathy for dinner near Nanjing East Rd and had some yummy Singaporean food. Then we had some drinks at a couple bars, went in search of a dance club and failed miserably, and went back home. After all the hype about Shanghai bars and the clubbing scene, either we really struck out or the scene actually isn't all that it's cracked up to be.
Quickly, I will get to the end of this too-long recap: Next day took the D bullet train to Nanjing. Had 7ish hours to kill there so went into the city center and walked around the giant shopping area. Bought two Chinese books: Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and Harry Potter. Actually Charlie is a pretty easy read... good to know I have the Chinese reading level equivalent to an elementary school child. Then took the soft sleeper back to Beijing where we arrived Wednesday morning to witness the throngs of Chinese tour groups descending upon Tiananmen for the National Holiday. You can't get away from the tourists, you really can't.
Final note: Internet is down momentarily so further posting will commence once it has been fixed. Hopefully within a day but I can't make any promises.
Thursday, October 2, 2008
posts pending
soon to come:
--Shanghai adventures
--even better adventures with Cynthia's mom
I will update once I get through this lot of homework that's suddenly piled up. Darn classes ruining all my China fun.... grumblegrumble...
--Shanghai adventures
--even better adventures with Cynthia's mom
I will update once I get through this lot of homework that's suddenly piled up. Darn classes ruining all my China fun.... grumblegrumble...
Monday, September 22, 2008
Certain things happen here...
that would not happen in NYC. For example:
--Saturday night we got kicked off the subway. At 11:20pm! Because the subways no longer run after that time of night! Unfortunately, we were on the equivalent of the circle line, so the departure was completely random and we were no where near our destination. Being the helpful city that it is, we then had to venture out into the street and find a cab to go the rest of the way home, because buses don't run after that time either. Wth! What happens to people who need to get somewhere at night and don't have enough money for a cab?? Definitely one of the sucky things about Beijing is this oversight in transportation needs, compounded with the fact that Beijing is a HUGE SPRAWLING METROPOLIS.
--The cab Cheng and I ended up taking was actually a funny thing in itself. We finally managed to hail it and there was already a guy sitting in the front seat next to the driver. The driver then explained that the guy was his old friend, and if we didn't mind, he could give us a ride while he and his old friend continued talking. I was like, aw cuties, and then I thought: can you imagine a taxi driver in NYC pulling up and being like, I'll take you if it's all right that my friend is sitting up here and we're having a random conversation. Oh but then it was funny because the friend dude was apparently listening to Cheng and I talk in the back and he told Cheng he liked the sound of Cheng's voice. Not that Cheng spoke well or anything, just that his voice sounded good. Hilarious.
--The coat check at the dance club/bar was free! What?? Insanity.
--Also the best part was right next to the club (called Propaganda with a big pink star on the front, which is pretty great by itself) is a 7/11 and if you want, you can simply waltz into the 7/11, buy a beer, drink it on the curb, and then head back into the club for some more dancing. China is sweet like that.
--Speaking of waltzing, when we went to Houhai earlier that day there was a random waltz dancing street show going on. It looked like people had just set up a boombox with some waltz music and were having at it. Impromptu street waltzing in NYC? Not very likely... except maybe somewhere in Brooklyn.
So maybe I should back up an explain how Saturday went: rode bus to Qinghua, rode bike to Cheng's dorm, had lunch with Cheng's friend, took taxi to meet Cathy at Nanluoguxiang, went back to Cathy's hotel near Houhai, had dinner with a bunch of people at a restaurant overlooking the lake, took a cab to Silk Market, took subway to Wangfujin but the night market was already closed so we took the subway back to Wudaokou and met up with people at Propaganda.
Needless to say that was an exhausting day in which we managed to take all forms of transportation around the city except rickshaw or electric bike (the boats at Houhai don't count cuz you just row them in circles). Sunday was rainy so I practiced some Daoist wuwei philosophy (aka sat on my butt all day) and now it's back to the school grind. But: Shanghai this coming weekend!
--Saturday night we got kicked off the subway. At 11:20pm! Because the subways no longer run after that time of night! Unfortunately, we were on the equivalent of the circle line, so the departure was completely random and we were no where near our destination. Being the helpful city that it is, we then had to venture out into the street and find a cab to go the rest of the way home, because buses don't run after that time either. Wth! What happens to people who need to get somewhere at night and don't have enough money for a cab?? Definitely one of the sucky things about Beijing is this oversight in transportation needs, compounded with the fact that Beijing is a HUGE SPRAWLING METROPOLIS.
--The cab Cheng and I ended up taking was actually a funny thing in itself. We finally managed to hail it and there was already a guy sitting in the front seat next to the driver. The driver then explained that the guy was his old friend, and if we didn't mind, he could give us a ride while he and his old friend continued talking. I was like, aw cuties, and then I thought: can you imagine a taxi driver in NYC pulling up and being like, I'll take you if it's all right that my friend is sitting up here and we're having a random conversation. Oh but then it was funny because the friend dude was apparently listening to Cheng and I talk in the back and he told Cheng he liked the sound of Cheng's voice. Not that Cheng spoke well or anything, just that his voice sounded good. Hilarious.
--The coat check at the dance club/bar was free! What?? Insanity.
--Also the best part was right next to the club (called Propaganda with a big pink star on the front, which is pretty great by itself) is a 7/11 and if you want, you can simply waltz into the 7/11, buy a beer, drink it on the curb, and then head back into the club for some more dancing. China is sweet like that.
--Speaking of waltzing, when we went to Houhai earlier that day there was a random waltz dancing street show going on. It looked like people had just set up a boombox with some waltz music and were having at it. Impromptu street waltzing in NYC? Not very likely... except maybe somewhere in Brooklyn.
So maybe I should back up an explain how Saturday went: rode bus to Qinghua, rode bike to Cheng's dorm, had lunch with Cheng's friend, took taxi to meet Cathy at Nanluoguxiang, went back to Cathy's hotel near Houhai, had dinner with a bunch of people at a restaurant overlooking the lake, took a cab to Silk Market, took subway to Wangfujin but the night market was already closed so we took the subway back to Wudaokou and met up with people at Propaganda.
Needless to say that was an exhausting day in which we managed to take all forms of transportation around the city except rickshaw or electric bike (the boats at Houhai don't count cuz you just row them in circles). Sunday was rainy so I practiced some Daoist wuwei philosophy (aka sat on my butt all day) and now it's back to the school grind. But: Shanghai this coming weekend!
Thursday, September 18, 2008
The Olympics were here, did you know?
This past weekend I went online and bought some tickets for the Olympics for Wednesday morning. Only... I thought we weren't supposed to have class on Wednesday, but it turns out we still have our morning class, so since the tickets were for the marathon from 7.30 am till 11.45 am, this was a problem. But no matter, class doesn't start till 9.30 so we thought we'd go check it out anyway.
Sure thing, except then we had to find out where to pick up the tickets, since you can't just get them at the venue the day of. That would be too easy. So Tuesday after class we set out to the nearest Bank of China to pick up the tickets, our Chinese teacher having told us that was where to go. NBD, we rode our bikes like 5 mins and were there. Except they told us no, we could not pick up tickets there, only certain Bank of Chinas had the tickets. They told us to walk 200 meters to the next closest bank, we could get it there. Right.
So we start walking and still aren't seeing it, so we ask a group of people sitting outside their apartment complex. Sure enough, they are happy to help us out, because when in China if you ask for directions, a committee must form to help you out. (Note: I couldn't remember the world for bank, so my description was (and I'll translate this for Amy) "the china change money place" and they figured out we needed a bank). Anyway, the consensus was "Nei biar" as it always is, so we kept walking.
Turns out the bank was on the second floor of some mall around the corner of the street (aka not at all easy to find) and when we get there the lady tells us "Oh, BEFORE you could get tickets here, but NOW you can't." Luckily she calls someone who tells us in English that we need to go to this other bank and that this bank for sure has tickets.
Ah! So we try three different cabs and the third one finally knows the bank address that we give him. We get there and praise Jesus there's an actual window that says "Beijing Olympic Tickets." But of course, my luck being what it is, I apparently typed my passport number in wrong when I registered online so I had to re-buy the tickets. No great monetary loss, but still annoying.
Oh, it gets better. On our way back, it started raining. And then, pouring. And as we were truthfully warned, when it rains in Beijing it is impossible to get a taxi... but that was exactly what we needed. Well we ended up walking like 200 meters on the side of a busy highway (in the wrong direction, I might add) before we finally captured a cab that was letting some lady off. Only, the lady wouldn't get out of the car because it was raining! We were standing there, huddling in the rain and wind, glaring at her, but she took her sweet sweet time getting out. Ah! And then the taxi driver was like, "But, BeiWai campus is right behind us" and I was like "Well, we would walk there, but it's raining, so drive" or something to that effect. I mean, can you imagine a cabbie telling you to get out and walk in a storm because the place you need to go "isn't that far behind us"??? Crazy. And for the record, the walk would not have been a quick one.
We finally got back like 3 hours after we set out, victorious but soaking. Then we had cooking club, which was of course fun because our Chinese teachers were there and they are adorable. Plus we ate lots of jiaozi. Then the next morning we arose a 6 and set out for the Bird's Nest. It was really awesome being there and I'm sad we had to cut the festivities short in order to make it back to class (although we were half hour late anyway, because traffic apparently sucks again, especially around 9am). But as of last night with the closing ceremony for the Paralympics, the games are officially over! I guess all the old Beijingers are breathing a sigh of relief that life can return to its normal chaos and the cheap DVDs will reappear on the streets. But for my part, I wish the traffic and pollution restrictions weren't being lifted.
Side note: This week I started working with the 400 level Chinese teacher on extra lessons and it's going really well. Of course I have my completely dumb moments where she gives me this look of incredulity like "I have no idea what you're trying to say/you really don't know what I'm saying?" but I think it'll really be good for me. Also I have a new friend who randomly came up to me on campus and wants to help me with my Chinese. She's a recent grad looking to teach English, so her English skills are good, and we're meeting tomorrow to figure out how this language partner thing is going to work. Also, Cheng and I spoke mostly in Chinese over dinner. It was fun! Well, he did most of the talking and I did a lot of listening and nodding, but still, I think my listening skills are getting better. Bring on the Chinese (but please don't kill me with memorizing hanzi...)!
Sure thing, except then we had to find out where to pick up the tickets, since you can't just get them at the venue the day of. That would be too easy. So Tuesday after class we set out to the nearest Bank of China to pick up the tickets, our Chinese teacher having told us that was where to go. NBD, we rode our bikes like 5 mins and were there. Except they told us no, we could not pick up tickets there, only certain Bank of Chinas had the tickets. They told us to walk 200 meters to the next closest bank, we could get it there. Right.
So we start walking and still aren't seeing it, so we ask a group of people sitting outside their apartment complex. Sure enough, they are happy to help us out, because when in China if you ask for directions, a committee must form to help you out. (Note: I couldn't remember the world for bank, so my description was (and I'll translate this for Amy) "the china change money place" and they figured out we needed a bank). Anyway, the consensus was "Nei biar" as it always is, so we kept walking.
Turns out the bank was on the second floor of some mall around the corner of the street (aka not at all easy to find) and when we get there the lady tells us "Oh, BEFORE you could get tickets here, but NOW you can't." Luckily she calls someone who tells us in English that we need to go to this other bank and that this bank for sure has tickets.
Ah! So we try three different cabs and the third one finally knows the bank address that we give him. We get there and praise Jesus there's an actual window that says "Beijing Olympic Tickets." But of course, my luck being what it is, I apparently typed my passport number in wrong when I registered online so I had to re-buy the tickets. No great monetary loss, but still annoying.
Oh, it gets better. On our way back, it started raining. And then, pouring. And as we were truthfully warned, when it rains in Beijing it is impossible to get a taxi... but that was exactly what we needed. Well we ended up walking like 200 meters on the side of a busy highway (in the wrong direction, I might add) before we finally captured a cab that was letting some lady off. Only, the lady wouldn't get out of the car because it was raining! We were standing there, huddling in the rain and wind, glaring at her, but she took her sweet sweet time getting out. Ah! And then the taxi driver was like, "But, BeiWai campus is right behind us" and I was like "Well, we would walk there, but it's raining, so drive" or something to that effect. I mean, can you imagine a cabbie telling you to get out and walk in a storm because the place you need to go "isn't that far behind us"??? Crazy. And for the record, the walk would not have been a quick one.
We finally got back like 3 hours after we set out, victorious but soaking. Then we had cooking club, which was of course fun because our Chinese teachers were there and they are adorable. Plus we ate lots of jiaozi. Then the next morning we arose a 6 and set out for the Bird's Nest. It was really awesome being there and I'm sad we had to cut the festivities short in order to make it back to class (although we were half hour late anyway, because traffic apparently sucks again, especially around 9am). But as of last night with the closing ceremony for the Paralympics, the games are officially over! I guess all the old Beijingers are breathing a sigh of relief that life can return to its normal chaos and the cheap DVDs will reappear on the streets. But for my part, I wish the traffic and pollution restrictions weren't being lifted.
Side note: This week I started working with the 400 level Chinese teacher on extra lessons and it's going really well. Of course I have my completely dumb moments where she gives me this look of incredulity like "I have no idea what you're trying to say/you really don't know what I'm saying?" but I think it'll really be good for me. Also I have a new friend who randomly came up to me on campus and wants to help me with my Chinese. She's a recent grad looking to teach English, so her English skills are good, and we're meeting tomorrow to figure out how this language partner thing is going to work. Also, Cheng and I spoke mostly in Chinese over dinner. It was fun! Well, he did most of the talking and I did a lot of listening and nodding, but still, I think my listening skills are getting better. Bring on the Chinese (but please don't kill me with memorizing hanzi...)!
Monday, September 15, 2008
Weekend Update
The thing about me and blogs is that once I get behind on updates, I find it really annoying to have to go back and recap everything that I've done. Alas, I don't want to leave you loyal readers in the dark (esp since I'm too lazy to add more pics to FB at this time) so here's a brief recap for you. (Actually, what this really means is that I have hw I should be doing and therefore find now to be a perfect time for some blogging).
So Cheng got back to Beijing last Thursday, hurray! I still haven't been to his campus though, because he came here for the weekend. On Friday after class we met up at a shopping center... and when I say "met up" think lots of phone calls like "Um our bus just got hit by a car, we'll be there soon" and "You're standing on a bridge that says Beijing Welcomes You? Wow, that's helpful" and "Zhongguancun gouwu zhongxin! It says that in big red characters at the top!" and "I don't see a big screen TV... keep walking" etc etc. Needless to say, it is not easy to meet up in Beijing (especially when a certain someone can't really read Chinese signs... coughcough).
Anyway later that night some friends had met this music guy and we all went out to Wudaokou to catch a live music show. At first we were told the music was going to be heavy metal, but then no, it was supposed to be indie rock, and when we got there it was somewhere in between the two. Luckily the band (don't remember the name, but they were from Norway... think long blonde hair and everything) was basically done by the time we arrived. Afterwards we chilled at the bar, Cheng and I played some foosball and a Chinese drinking game with a German guy and a Chinese saxophone player. Good times, good conversation.
The next day I definitely didn't get motivated till two, and then the plan was to meet up with Cheng at the Summer Palace. Again, the whole "meet up" definitely backfired when our bus took us to the North Gate and he was stuck down at the East Gate (with no money because he forgot his wallet. Nice.). So Pre (from my program) and I rushed through the beautiful palace on the hill and went to the gate to rescue Cheng, and then the three of us chilled by the lake and decided we had to come back on a day that wasn't so smoggy and when we had enough time to rent a boat.
The next morning we got up early and went on a "hutong tour" provided by our school. See, the flier told us we'd be guided by an expert into the hutong neighborhoods to chat with the people who lived there. Only, we got on the bus and were first dropped off at the Lu Xun museum. Well, this is cool, I thought, I mean I wanted to come here anyway. We had an impromptu lesson from our tour guide about Beijing's development and cities in China in general. What did this have to do with the writer Lu Xun? I'm still not sure. Then we wandered around the museum and saw Lu Xun's old home (which was a hutong, so I guess we were sort of on the right track).
We got on the bus again and this time it dropped us off at a Buddhist temple. Ummm ok this is definitely not relating to hutongs, but still interesting, I thought. Maybe there are hutongs located near this temple and we will be seeing them soon. But no, we were led into the temple for another impromptu lesson, this time with a monk. He seemed to be deeply respected and wanted us to ask him a lot of questions, but didn't seem so inclined to directly answer them. For example, as he was talking to us about his recent visit to Taiwan, he was fiddling with a very nice looking cell phone. And at one point our guide was translating and the monk actually took a phone call while he was sitting there. Um, what?
So I ask, trying not to pointedly stare at his phone, How do you balance the strict rule and regulations [of religion and monastary life] with modern technology and advances? Seems like a fair question, right? Worthy of an in-depth response... but no. He said, Well I make sure I find myself a good teacher. When I have a good teacher to guide me, I'm ok. Or something to that effect. Very vague.
The monastary people were nice enough to guide us around the temple and show us some things that the normal people don't get to see. For example, around the back of one of the altars was the huge huuuuuuge painting done entirely with the artist's right hand pinky finger. That's right, a wall-sized finger painting. It was actually very beautiful, and during the Cultural Revolution someone built a wall in front of it so it wouldn't be destroyed. No pictures allowed though.
It was slightly odd walking through the temples, yesterday being the Mid-Autumn Festival. This is one of those days where EVERYONE goes to the temple and offers food and incense to the ancestors. So we were like walking in front of the lines of people as they bowed and made their devotions. And after that, guess where we went. Home, of course! The end of the Hutong tour, in which nary a hutong was seen. False advertising, I tell ya. I would have been more satisfied with the tour if they had told us what were we actually going to see. As it is, I still want to see the hutongs! When is that tour leaving??
So Cheng got back to Beijing last Thursday, hurray! I still haven't been to his campus though, because he came here for the weekend. On Friday after class we met up at a shopping center... and when I say "met up" think lots of phone calls like "Um our bus just got hit by a car, we'll be there soon" and "You're standing on a bridge that says Beijing Welcomes You? Wow, that's helpful" and "Zhongguancun gouwu zhongxin! It says that in big red characters at the top!" and "I don't see a big screen TV... keep walking" etc etc. Needless to say, it is not easy to meet up in Beijing (especially when a certain someone can't really read Chinese signs... coughcough).
Anyway later that night some friends had met this music guy and we all went out to Wudaokou to catch a live music show. At first we were told the music was going to be heavy metal, but then no, it was supposed to be indie rock, and when we got there it was somewhere in between the two. Luckily the band (don't remember the name, but they were from Norway... think long blonde hair and everything) was basically done by the time we arrived. Afterwards we chilled at the bar, Cheng and I played some foosball and a Chinese drinking game with a German guy and a Chinese saxophone player. Good times, good conversation.
The next day I definitely didn't get motivated till two, and then the plan was to meet up with Cheng at the Summer Palace. Again, the whole "meet up" definitely backfired when our bus took us to the North Gate and he was stuck down at the East Gate (with no money because he forgot his wallet. Nice.). So Pre (from my program) and I rushed through the beautiful palace on the hill and went to the gate to rescue Cheng, and then the three of us chilled by the lake and decided we had to come back on a day that wasn't so smoggy and when we had enough time to rent a boat.
The next morning we got up early and went on a "hutong tour" provided by our school. See, the flier told us we'd be guided by an expert into the hutong neighborhoods to chat with the people who lived there. Only, we got on the bus and were first dropped off at the Lu Xun museum. Well, this is cool, I thought, I mean I wanted to come here anyway. We had an impromptu lesson from our tour guide about Beijing's development and cities in China in general. What did this have to do with the writer Lu Xun? I'm still not sure. Then we wandered around the museum and saw Lu Xun's old home (which was a hutong, so I guess we were sort of on the right track).We got on the bus again and this time it dropped us off at a Buddhist temple. Ummm ok this is definitely not relating to hutongs, but still interesting, I thought. Maybe there are hutongs located near this temple and we will be seeing them soon. But no, we were led into the temple for another impromptu lesson, this time with a monk. He seemed to be deeply respected and wanted us to ask him a lot of questions, but didn't seem so inclined to directly answer them. For example, as he was talking to us about his recent visit to Taiwan, he was fiddling with a very nice looking cell phone. And at one point our guide was translating and the monk actually took a phone call while he was sitting there. Um, what?
So I ask, trying not to pointedly stare at his phone, How do you balance the strict rule and regulations [of religion and monastary life] with modern technology and advances? Seems like a fair question, right? Worthy of an in-depth response... but no. He said, Well I make sure I find myself a good teacher. When I have a good teacher to guide me, I'm ok. Or something to that effect. Very vague.
The monastary people were nice enough to guide us around the temple and show us some things that the normal people don't get to see. For example, around the back of one of the altars was the huge huuuuuuge painting done entirely with the artist's right hand pinky finger. That's right, a wall-sized finger painting. It was actually very beautiful, and during the Cultural Revolution someone built a wall in front of it so it wouldn't be destroyed. No pictures allowed though.
It was slightly odd walking through the temples, yesterday being the Mid-Autumn Festival. This is one of those days where EVERYONE goes to the temple and offers food and incense to the ancestors. So we were like walking in front of the lines of people as they bowed and made their devotions. And after that, guess where we went. Home, of course! The end of the Hutong tour, in which nary a hutong was seen. False advertising, I tell ya. I would have been more satisfied with the tour if they had told us what were we actually going to see. As it is, I still want to see the hutongs! When is that tour leaving??
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Gorgeous
One of the best things about living in a big city is finding a place where you can go to get away from it all. It seems hard to imagine such a thing in Beijing, but thanks to a helpful tip from our teacher, we found an amazing street tucked away in the central area of Beijing that is absolutely ideal. It's called Nanluo Guxiang and it's close to the Bell Tower but removed from all the touristy things. The small street is lined with boutiques, coffee shops, cute bars, and a range of restaurants. It's a little pricey on the Chinese side, but for us Americans it was paradise. We did a little shopping, sipped some tea and did some reading, then grabbed hot pot for dinner. Since it was raining and we didn't want to head back to campus just yet, we stopped in to get pedicures and chatted with two French guys who were there getting massages. The street is also really cool because it's a good mix of trendy Beijing locals and foreigners... overall the most chill scene I have found here yet. I will definitely be returning (especially since I didn't take many pictures).
This morning we had a field trip for class. We met up with our professor at Jingshan Park, which we had previously whizzed through on the infamous Mystery Beijing exersize. Since the day was amazingly clear, we decided we had to take the opportunity and climb to the top of the hill to appreciate the view.
Trees! And a lake! And haphazardly placed buildings in the background! You probably can't tell bc the pic is so small, but there are even the faint outlines of mountains in the distance.
Anyway, then we went to the Forbidden City through the back door, which confused the people who worked there, but I explained, "We're going from hou to xian." Obviously. Um, let's see if I can find a good picture...
I wasn't in the mood to take the standard posing-by-the-gates/throne room/palace photos so I let everyone else take those and I will steal them once they are up on FB. After we concluded our tour we headed over to Grandma's Kitchen for some good old western diner type food. At the last second I decided on a cheeseburger instead of pancakes, but now I know where to go when the pancake craving really hits. Good food, not quite American but close enough, and too pricey but hey, it hit the spot.
Gotta run to the supermarket now for some orange drAnk, water bottles, random snacks, and pears. The pears here are so good! I am addicted.
This morning we had a field trip for class. We met up with our professor at Jingshan Park, which we had previously whizzed through on the infamous Mystery Beijing exersize. Since the day was amazingly clear, we decided we had to take the opportunity and climb to the top of the hill to appreciate the view.
Trees! And a lake! And haphazardly placed buildings in the background! You probably can't tell bc the pic is so small, but there are even the faint outlines of mountains in the distance.Anyway, then we went to the Forbidden City through the back door, which confused the people who worked there, but I explained, "We're going from hou to xian." Obviously. Um, let's see if I can find a good picture...
I wasn't in the mood to take the standard posing-by-the-gates/throne room/palace photos so I let everyone else take those and I will steal them once they are up on FB. After we concluded our tour we headed over to Grandma's Kitchen for some good old western diner type food. At the last second I decided on a cheeseburger instead of pancakes, but now I know where to go when the pancake craving really hits. Good food, not quite American but close enough, and too pricey but hey, it hit the spot.
Gotta run to the supermarket now for some orange drAnk, water bottles, random snacks, and pears. The pears here are so good! I am addicted.
Monday, September 8, 2008
Dalian, China's "green" city
Don't worry, I made it back alive and almost in one piece! Traveling via train in China on my own was definitely an experience, and I'd feel pretty confident having to do it again, but I definitely learned some things along the way. Like, don't ever ever travel overnight by hard seat (which was all they had left by Friday for my return trip on Sunday). And hard sleeper is not the epitome of luxury, but it's definitely doable and preferable to the other options.
My journey started at the train station, where I waited in this line:
Yup, this is a line in China. It didn't make sense to me because we all had assigned beds/seats, but there was a wild crush to get on first. (Of course on the way back I learned not everyone had a seat and storage space was limited. Oh how blissfully naive I was with my hard sleeper ticket). We left at 10pm and arrived the next morning at 8, when Cheng and his aunt met me at the station.
Then Cheng and I went off to the seaside for some grand Dalian canguan. Which, coincidentally, does not mean there is a giant shopping mall, it means we did some touristy things.
Suffice it to say, but 2pm we had had lunch and we a little bored of walking around and taking pictures. So we went and sang karaoke for a couple hours, then headed back to Cheng's aunt's apartment for some home cooked foods. My favorite.
But first! There was a Walmart across the street from the apartment, and I had to go.
Look, Cheng's head is bigger than a watermelon! Haha :) Wo ai ni!
But back to the story. We had a wonderful meal with his aunt and her 15 year old daughter Yanhua. Yanhua was cool to talk to because for the most part, I could understand her Chinese. And at dinner they asked me what I thought of China, so I got to break out my newly learned sentence patterns: Wo di yige yingxiang shi... etc etc. And they wanted to know what the West was commonly saying about China, and all that. I've noticed that I can have good conversations in Chinese as long as there is someone else around to help translate/do most of the talking. I like to listen to people talk in Chinese and try and figure out what they are saying. But more and more I'm trying to figure out how to express my own ideas, though this usually takes too much time and by the time I have a thought formed in Chinese in my mind, the conversation has already shifted. Oh well, I try.
We watched the opening ceremony for the Para-Olympics on TV and then I passed out. I still have that annoying song stuck in my head though: Women yiqi qi fei!!!!!! Well, at least Andy Lau was there, that was pretty cool. Couldn't compare to the regular Olympics though, but it was pretty cool to watch. I wished so badly to be back in Beijing then, watching the fireworks from Tiananmen or something. Hmmm maybe the closing ceremony...
The next day Cheng's aunt took us shopping. OMG it was madness. It seemed like every single person in Dalian descended upon the mall that day. We braved the crowds for a little while, and I got an impulse manicure, but then I had had enough. Since there's nothing I really need to buy right now, meandering through the stalls and crowds wasn't very appealing. So we stopped by a friend's tea shop and drank some green tea. The way they brew the tea is really interesting, and we sat there for awhile, sipping from our tiny cups, eating pumpkin seeds, and shooting the breeze. The tea shop owners' 6 year old daughter was running around the mall and I absolutely loved her. I wanted to take pics of her but she wouldn't let me. However, she did point and every person and tell me to take pics of them, and then she would laugh and be like, "wo zhao le ni!" Adorable. Here's one that she made me take:
Cheng and his aunt. Now, don't even get me started on the train ride back. It was just awful. There was not much space for those of us sitting, and some people didn't even have seats and were just standing the whole time. For like 10 hours! Our train was also apparently a local (not express) because ever hour or so we'd stop somewhere and more people would get on. Crazy. Also, the air conditioning was blasting and I was wearing shorts and a tank top, so that just made it even less easy to fall asleep. Fortunately the man next to me took pity on my and offered to switch seats so I could sleep by the window (instead of the the middle of two people (and the other guy was really fat so he took up a lot of space)). He said this in Chines and when I got up and was like, Hao xie xie, some other guy was like, Oh it's like she understood! Yes, actually, I can understand some Chinese... but I didn't say that. I was too exhausted and had mentally given up on the situation to try and make any conversation, so I left everyone else assume I was a stupid foreigner with no Chinese skills. Oh well. I couldn't stop thinking about my hard sleeper bed on the way there and how much I missed it... even imagining scenarios where I stole into the hard sleeper cabin and paid someone 150 kuai to trade tickets with me. But alas, I stuck it out, and by 6.30 am the next day (today) was safely tucked into my own bed back in the dorm... only to wake up for class 2.5 hours later. Needless to say, I think I'll stay in Beijing and enjoy the sights around here next weekend (and Cheng will be back by then, anyway). But I'm glad I went, because of the cool people that I met in Dalian, even though Dalian itself seemed a little bland.
My journey started at the train station, where I waited in this line:
Yup, this is a line in China. It didn't make sense to me because we all had assigned beds/seats, but there was a wild crush to get on first. (Of course on the way back I learned not everyone had a seat and storage space was limited. Oh how blissfully naive I was with my hard sleeper ticket). We left at 10pm and arrived the next morning at 8, when Cheng and his aunt met me at the station.
Then Cheng and I went off to the seaside for some grand Dalian canguan. Which, coincidentally, does not mean there is a giant shopping mall, it means we did some touristy things.
Suffice it to say, but 2pm we had had lunch and we a little bored of walking around and taking pictures. So we went and sang karaoke for a couple hours, then headed back to Cheng's aunt's apartment for some home cooked foods. My favorite.
But first! There was a Walmart across the street from the apartment, and I had to go.Look, Cheng's head is bigger than a watermelon! Haha :) Wo ai ni!
But back to the story. We had a wonderful meal with his aunt and her 15 year old daughter Yanhua. Yanhua was cool to talk to because for the most part, I could understand her Chinese. And at dinner they asked me what I thought of China, so I got to break out my newly learned sentence patterns: Wo di yige yingxiang shi... etc etc. And they wanted to know what the West was commonly saying about China, and all that. I've noticed that I can have good conversations in Chinese as long as there is someone else around to help translate/do most of the talking. I like to listen to people talk in Chinese and try and figure out what they are saying. But more and more I'm trying to figure out how to express my own ideas, though this usually takes too much time and by the time I have a thought formed in Chinese in my mind, the conversation has already shifted. Oh well, I try.
We watched the opening ceremony for the Para-Olympics on TV and then I passed out. I still have that annoying song stuck in my head though: Women yiqi qi fei!!!!!! Well, at least Andy Lau was there, that was pretty cool. Couldn't compare to the regular Olympics though, but it was pretty cool to watch. I wished so badly to be back in Beijing then, watching the fireworks from Tiananmen or something. Hmmm maybe the closing ceremony...
The next day Cheng's aunt took us shopping. OMG it was madness. It seemed like every single person in Dalian descended upon the mall that day. We braved the crowds for a little while, and I got an impulse manicure, but then I had had enough. Since there's nothing I really need to buy right now, meandering through the stalls and crowds wasn't very appealing. So we stopped by a friend's tea shop and drank some green tea. The way they brew the tea is really interesting, and we sat there for awhile, sipping from our tiny cups, eating pumpkin seeds, and shooting the breeze. The tea shop owners' 6 year old daughter was running around the mall and I absolutely loved her. I wanted to take pics of her but she wouldn't let me. However, she did point and every person and tell me to take pics of them, and then she would laugh and be like, "wo zhao le ni!" Adorable. Here's one that she made me take:
Cheng and his aunt. Now, don't even get me started on the train ride back. It was just awful. There was not much space for those of us sitting, and some people didn't even have seats and were just standing the whole time. For like 10 hours! Our train was also apparently a local (not express) because ever hour or so we'd stop somewhere and more people would get on. Crazy. Also, the air conditioning was blasting and I was wearing shorts and a tank top, so that just made it even less easy to fall asleep. Fortunately the man next to me took pity on my and offered to switch seats so I could sleep by the window (instead of the the middle of two people (and the other guy was really fat so he took up a lot of space)). He said this in Chines and when I got up and was like, Hao xie xie, some other guy was like, Oh it's like she understood! Yes, actually, I can understand some Chinese... but I didn't say that. I was too exhausted and had mentally given up on the situation to try and make any conversation, so I left everyone else assume I was a stupid foreigner with no Chinese skills. Oh well. I couldn't stop thinking about my hard sleeper bed on the way there and how much I missed it... even imagining scenarios where I stole into the hard sleeper cabin and paid someone 150 kuai to trade tickets with me. But alas, I stuck it out, and by 6.30 am the next day (today) was safely tucked into my own bed back in the dorm... only to wake up for class 2.5 hours later. Needless to say, I think I'll stay in Beijing and enjoy the sights around here next weekend (and Cheng will be back by then, anyway). But I'm glad I went, because of the cool people that I met in Dalian, even though Dalian itself seemed a little bland.
Friday, September 5, 2008
Just Kidding
I got a call from my program director at 10 this morning being like, Where do you want to pick up your ticket for Dalian from the travel agent man? And I was like, Uhhh what? Dude never called me back yesterday so I assumed he couldn't find any tickets.
Anyway, thus ensued a crazy game of talking to the courier about where to pick up my ticket. The director told me to go to the campus's back gate, but he was not there, so I called and asked, "Ni zai hou menkou haishi xian menkou?" Of course he was at the front gate. So I walk all the way over there and go up to the wrong guy who tells me he's waiting for a Ribenren. Oops. The courier calls me again, and after much confusion I walk out the gate and he goes, "Wang you wang you wang you." Fortunately that was one of the vocab words from this week. So I turn right and see a guy on his phone just sitting on his motorbike (which he had explained, but I didn't realize until then. Motouche!) Why couldn't he have gotten up and found me, the only flumoxed white girl wandering around with 300 kuai in her hand for a train ticket? Well whatever. Got the ticket and in a couple hours I'm off to brave the Beijing train station and the overnight sleeper. Tomorrow I'll be kicking up sand by the haibian, if that makes sense.
No posts till next week then, sorry! Have a good weekend :)
Anyway, thus ensued a crazy game of talking to the courier about where to pick up my ticket. The director told me to go to the campus's back gate, but he was not there, so I called and asked, "Ni zai hou menkou haishi xian menkou?" Of course he was at the front gate. So I walk all the way over there and go up to the wrong guy who tells me he's waiting for a Ribenren. Oops. The courier calls me again, and after much confusion I walk out the gate and he goes, "Wang you wang you wang you." Fortunately that was one of the vocab words from this week. So I turn right and see a guy on his phone just sitting on his motorbike (which he had explained, but I didn't realize until then. Motouche!) Why couldn't he have gotten up and found me, the only flumoxed white girl wandering around with 300 kuai in her hand for a train ticket? Well whatever. Got the ticket and in a couple hours I'm off to brave the Beijing train station and the overnight sleeper. Tomorrow I'll be kicking up sand by the haibian, if that makes sense.
No posts till next week then, sorry! Have a good weekend :)
Thursday, September 4, 2008
Things I've had to adjust to since being here
1. You cannot put toilet paper in the toilets. It must go in a trashcan beside the toilet, otherwise the toilet gets clogged. (Also some toilets you can't even do No. 2 (er hao) in.)
2. Pedestrians have no right of way. In fact, it pretty much sucks being a pedestrian. Hopefully I am getting a bike this weekend.
3. Bug spray is essential.
4. A good day means being able to see the mountains out the window.
5. All fruit must be peeled and sliced. Don't bite into it or you risk eating something you probably don't want to.
6. You can't drink the water. You don't want to anyway, because it smells funny. So I've been buying lots and lots of bottles of water, tea, juice, dengdeng. Contributing to the over abundance of plastic refuse problem, I am.
7. On the other hand, none of the shops will give you a plastic bag unless you ask for it and pay like 2 mao. Which is... less than 5 US cents, probably, but still I always forget to bring a bag to the grocery store and end up shoving everything in my purse. Awkward.
I'm sure there are other things. I'm already missing cereal and milk for breakfast, for example, but I'm not about to break down and buy me some corn flakes and soy milk yet. Yet. Oh and lastly, my plans for this weekend were disrupted when I went to the train station to buy a ticket to see Cheng in Dalian but they had none left :( Mai wan le! And it's too late to hitch a ride with some of the other kids to Mongolia, so I'll just be kicking it around Beijing this weekend. Things could be worse.
2. Pedestrians have no right of way. In fact, it pretty much sucks being a pedestrian. Hopefully I am getting a bike this weekend.
3. Bug spray is essential.
4. A good day means being able to see the mountains out the window.
5. All fruit must be peeled and sliced. Don't bite into it or you risk eating something you probably don't want to.
6. You can't drink the water. You don't want to anyway, because it smells funny. So I've been buying lots and lots of bottles of water, tea, juice, dengdeng. Contributing to the over abundance of plastic refuse problem, I am.
7. On the other hand, none of the shops will give you a plastic bag unless you ask for it and pay like 2 mao. Which is... less than 5 US cents, probably, but still I always forget to bring a bag to the grocery store and end up shoving everything in my purse. Awkward.
I'm sure there are other things. I'm already missing cereal and milk for breakfast, for example, but I'm not about to break down and buy me some corn flakes and soy milk yet. Yet. Oh and lastly, my plans for this weekend were disrupted when I went to the train station to buy a ticket to see Cheng in Dalian but they had none left :( Mai wan le! And it's too late to hitch a ride with some of the other kids to Mongolia, so I'll just be kicking it around Beijing this weekend. Things could be worse.
Tuesday, September 2, 2008
Golden arches in the Middle Kingdom
SUOYI I've eaten the McDonald's here. I'm half ashamed to admit it, but really, it had to be done. Anyway today was a pengyou's birthday, and he chose to have us eat there, so we did. Actually I was quite pleased with myself, since I did all the ordering in Chinese. Ready: "Wo yao er hao." He asked me, "big or small?" I said, "Xiao. Hai you, bingqiling" and I pointed to the fruit sundae thing. So that's what I got! A cheeseburger with a small drink and fries, and a vanilla sundae with some strange peach gelatin topping. Only, the cheeseburger had cucumbers and a strange spicy sauce on it. A little strange, but edible. The fries tasted the same.
(Also, on the cab ride there, I asked the cab driver, "Ni chiguo Maidanlao de fan ma?" And he had, so I asked, "Ni juede zenmeyang?" And he answered with some adjective I didn't know and can't remember. He probably said it tasted like shit. Anyway that was the end of our convo because I didn't know where to go from there. Sigh.)
Now, my Maidanlao meal cost almost 30 kuai. That's pretty expensive, especially considering last night a group of 9 of us went out to eat, ordered several dishes, ate our full, and the total bill was 98 kuai. So we paid less than 2 US dollars each for all that good food. Just strange, is all I'm saying. Oh but then I had a screwdriver at an Americanized bar (read: expensive-er, and classy-ish) and it was 10 kuai. Nice. Try getting a screwdriver for a dollar fifty in NYC. Not happening.
Not much else to say. Cheng is in Dalian being sick since I passed on my germs to him. I'm hopefully getting a bike this weekend so I don't have to be lame and walk to class everyday. Oh, and so I can go on bike rides to the park and stuff. Also I'm debating whether or not to join some other students and visit Mongolia this weekend. Hm we'll see. Sounds cool, but I want to do some research on it first, so here I go.
(Also, on the cab ride there, I asked the cab driver, "Ni chiguo Maidanlao de fan ma?" And he had, so I asked, "Ni juede zenmeyang?" And he answered with some adjective I didn't know and can't remember. He probably said it tasted like shit. Anyway that was the end of our convo because I didn't know where to go from there. Sigh.)
Now, my Maidanlao meal cost almost 30 kuai. That's pretty expensive, especially considering last night a group of 9 of us went out to eat, ordered several dishes, ate our full, and the total bill was 98 kuai. So we paid less than 2 US dollars each for all that good food. Just strange, is all I'm saying. Oh but then I had a screwdriver at an Americanized bar (read: expensive-er, and classy-ish) and it was 10 kuai. Nice. Try getting a screwdriver for a dollar fifty in NYC. Not happening.
Not much else to say. Cheng is in Dalian being sick since I passed on my germs to him. I'm hopefully getting a bike this weekend so I don't have to be lame and walk to class everyday. Oh, and so I can go on bike rides to the park and stuff. Also I'm debating whether or not to join some other students and visit Mongolia this weekend. Hm we'll see. Sounds cool, but I want to do some research on it first, so here I go.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
The first weekend
Even though I couldn’t go out to Sanlitun this weekend and get my drink on (this has yet to happen here) I definitely had an amazing two days before classes start. On Saturday I got to sleep in (hurray!) so I felt a little rejuvenated from the previous day’s jaunting around the city. Cheng came over to campus and even though it was slightly rainy out, we went on an excursion to the 798 art district. It turned out to be all the way on the other side of the city, but it was awesome and I would love to go back sometime, since we only got to explore about half of the area.
It’s kinda the same idea as Chelsea, with open galleries you can just wander into and look at contemporary art. But the cool thing is that the neighborhood is actually a bunch of old factories and low buildings, so the spaces where the artwork is hung makes the art even more intense. Now, the area used to be for the avante garde, but of course once people caught on to the fact that this neighborhood was quite hip, gentrification began. As a result, most artists can’t afford to live there anymore, but it still seemed like an impressive place to have work shown. The strange part was this random Nike building where you can go in, exchange you ID card for an iPod touch, and have a guided tour through the history of Nike shoes. It was actually really cool, and the second floor of the building had all the gear Nike made for the Chinese Olympic team, along with explanations as to why it was so special. Then at the end when Cheng returned the iPod, he got a free Nike propaganda book, complete with blank pages for him to sketch his own shoe designs. I think he was in love.
We quickly ate some noodles when we got back to campus, and then departed to see the Beijing acrobats at the Heaven and Earth Theater. Now, I’ve already seen Cirque du Soleil’s version of Chinese acrobatics, and was very very impressed. But this show was really cool too. There were cute little boys doing jump rope, cute girls throwing around Chinese yoyos, an androgynous man wearing hot pants juggling, and much more. Crazy fun times. I heard lots of “oh my god, no they’re not going to…” and “what, how is this happening” around me, so I’m guessing the other people on my program were suitably impressed. Awed, even.
Since I had to get up at 7.30 this morning I again opted out on any bar shenanigans for the night. I actually woke up feeling much better, though I still have a cough and sound like Janis Joplin (no karaoke-ing for me till my voice goes back to normal!). The I looked outside and WO DE TIAN LE! I could see the mountains in the distance! And… blue skies! The rain yesterday did the most wonderful thing and gave us the most beautiful day anyone could ask for. Zero humidity and cool breezes… could it get any better? Oh yes, because the reason I got up so early was that we were going on an excursion outside the city to a village in the mountains called Cuandixia, an outpost town to Xi’an that has been preserved since the Ming Dynasty.
The bus ride took like 2 hours but it was worth it. We got there and immediately climbed a mountain. I am not kidding. We pa’d a shan at 11 and I would have eaten a better breakfast had I know how rigorous it would be. Oh, and I also would have worn tennis shoes and shorts instead of flip flops and a skirt. But all they said was we were visiting a village! Anyway, footwear woes aside, climbing that mountain was worth it. We got a spectacular view of the entire village and surrounding countryside (read: mountains). It made me realize how terribly out of shape I am, but hey, at least I made it to the top. And down again! Going down was worse, since it was so steep.
After all that work we were duly rewarded with a tremendous meal cooked by a local townsman (a friend of our program director) and his wife. They made us so much food! Like, they would not stop bring out dishes. My favorites were: cucumber with apricot seeds, potatoes and green peppers with beef, and scallion pancakes. All the food was from the village, and apparently three chickens died that morning in our honor. Well, it was delicious. And then the host gave us a history of the village; he is the 15th generation of the Han family who settled the village after the Ming dynasty fell. His grandson is 17th generation. Can you even imagine?? And at one point, this village housed the dynasty’s gold treasure, in a hole underground in the guy’s house. What?? Crazy talk! But it’s true, and that’s why China is amazing.
After lunch we were free to explore on our own for a couple hours. The director took a group over some more mountains to view an abandoned town nearby, but my footwear forced me to stay in the village. Which was fine by me. A small group of us found our way to a terrace restaurant overlooking the town and sat there for a while, drinking pijiu and laotiar-ing with the owner. Between one other 300 level guy and myself, we had a cool conversation with him about Korean people riding scooters, his favorite movie Snakes on a plane (me: you mean… she zai feiji? Him: dui! (and he mimes a snake biting a guy’s head)) and the village itself. A Canadian woman joined us at one point and she was cool too. She had just published a book about Beijing and wanted to revise it later to add a description of this village. Later, one of the RA’s on our program came over and she really helped translate; she even translated the restaurant’s Chinese name into English so more tourists could find out about it. Go ahead, Google Cuandixia and see what you find. I was there! It was feichang piaoliang!
Whelp, tomorrow class officially starts. Although for this week we only have Chinese class, and it doesn’t start till 2. Nice. But it’s four hours long. Not so nice. I read over my 300 level hw and it seems pretty easy actually… so I might have to move up a level. We’ll see. My reading is good but speaking and listening not so much. I’m getting by though. I figured out Snakes on a Plane and Koreans riding motorbikes!
Friday, August 29, 2008
They love me so much,
these Beijing mosquitoes do. I have several bites on my body, including on smack in the middle of my forehead and one on my nose. Sound familiar, Cynthia? It's like mosquito deja vu. Except not cool in any way.
Anyway, today we had a presentation in the morning by our affiliate travel agent man. He was cool except he only spoke Chinese. And he showed us lots of slides of lots of places I want to go. Like, basically everywhere in China. And some cool places in Beijing too, of course. They definitely encourage us to take trips on the weekends here, since it's fairly easy to take an overnight train on Friday night to somewhere in within the northern half of China and still make it back to class on Monday after a fun filled weekend. Some places I'd like to visit if given the chance: Lhasa, Harbin, Guilin, and Fuzhou (as long as Cheng can come with me). Now I'm noticing that these are not the easiest places to get to, but oh well. I will make something happen.
This afternoon was the fun part. (Not really). Cheng joined us for a scavenger hunt around Beijing... only I somehow neglected to tell him the hunt was Amazing Race style. In a group of five we had to navigate our way to different landmarks around Beijing (7 in all) within 3 hours and make it back in time for dinner. The group to reach the most landmarks won. Well, we got to four, after taking a ridiculously long time to find out first spot at Houhai. I ended up retracing my trip from yesterday. From there we went to Beihai park, where I somehow got ripped off an paid 20 yuan for the entrance fee. But it was a pretty park. I'd go back if the fee was less.
Our next stop was the top of the hill at Jingshanyuan, the park behind the Forbidden City where an emperor hanged himself as his dynasty ended. From there we took a bus to Tiananmen Square to pick up our last clue that we had time for, outside of Mao's tomb. The clue was something about a Silk Road and a market to the east of the Square the sold lots of fake name brand items. We ended up at Wangfujin because the cab driver thought that was where we needed to be... oh well. So we only ended up getting 4 spots finished and another team beat us by one spot. At least now I know how to get to those places, and feel pretty confident navigating that central area of the city. I'd like to go back when I'm less rushed and take more pictures, but actually right now I'd rather visit some other neighborhoods in the city.
I had the option of going with my group to Sanlitun tonight for some jiuba fun, but declined since I'm still not feeling well. We have nothing planned for tomorrow morning (amazingly) so I'm going to get some rest and hope that whatever sickness I have no will leave me alone. I think not racing around the city during the day will also alleviate some of my ills. Oh, and as a side note, although Beijing is not being so nice to me right now, I think Cheng is doing very well. Beijing looks good on him! He speaks easily with the natives, has no fears about eating the street food, and has random moments of nostalgia and memories from his childhood come back. Zhen ke'ai. Ok, xianzai wo yao shuijiao! Ming tian jian!
Anyway, today we had a presentation in the morning by our affiliate travel agent man. He was cool except he only spoke Chinese. And he showed us lots of slides of lots of places I want to go. Like, basically everywhere in China. And some cool places in Beijing too, of course. They definitely encourage us to take trips on the weekends here, since it's fairly easy to take an overnight train on Friday night to somewhere in within the northern half of China and still make it back to class on Monday after a fun filled weekend. Some places I'd like to visit if given the chance: Lhasa, Harbin, Guilin, and Fuzhou (as long as Cheng can come with me). Now I'm noticing that these are not the easiest places to get to, but oh well. I will make something happen.
This afternoon was the fun part. (Not really). Cheng joined us for a scavenger hunt around Beijing... only I somehow neglected to tell him the hunt was Amazing Race style. In a group of five we had to navigate our way to different landmarks around Beijing (7 in all) within 3 hours and make it back in time for dinner. The group to reach the most landmarks won. Well, we got to four, after taking a ridiculously long time to find out first spot at Houhai. I ended up retracing my trip from yesterday. From there we went to Beihai park, where I somehow got ripped off an paid 20 yuan for the entrance fee. But it was a pretty park. I'd go back if the fee was less.
Our next stop was the top of the hill at Jingshanyuan, the park behind the Forbidden City where an emperor hanged himself as his dynasty ended. From there we took a bus to Tiananmen Square to pick up our last clue that we had time for, outside of Mao's tomb. The clue was something about a Silk Road and a market to the east of the Square the sold lots of fake name brand items. We ended up at Wangfujin because the cab driver thought that was where we needed to be... oh well. So we only ended up getting 4 spots finished and another team beat us by one spot. At least now I know how to get to those places, and feel pretty confident navigating that central area of the city. I'd like to go back when I'm less rushed and take more pictures, but actually right now I'd rather visit some other neighborhoods in the city.
I had the option of going with my group to Sanlitun tonight for some jiuba fun, but declined since I'm still not feeling well. We have nothing planned for tomorrow morning (amazingly) so I'm going to get some rest and hope that whatever sickness I have no will leave me alone. I think not racing around the city during the day will also alleviate some of my ills. Oh, and as a side note, although Beijing is not being so nice to me right now, I think Cheng is doing very well. Beijing looks good on him! He speaks easily with the natives, has no fears about eating the street food, and has random moments of nostalgia and memories from his childhood come back. Zhen ke'ai. Ok, xianzai wo yao shuijiao! Ming tian jian!
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Technical Difficulties Fixed! Commence Posting!
Well kids, the unfortunate truth is that Maarten Troost was not lying when he complained about how horrible the air pollution is here. Nor was he exaggerating. It’s bad. On top of it being bad, I had a sore throat bothering me off and on before I left, and of course now it is back in full force. I used to like going outside or opening my window for some fresh air (even in NY!) but now I am cowering in my dorm room in fear of breathing any more outside fumes.
The throat condition was no doubt exacerbated by the amount of walking outside I have already done today. We started out the morning with a voluntary excursion across the city to the Houhai district to check out some hutongs. Getting there first involved catching a bus, then getting off and walking a few blocks to the subway. I must say I was quite impressed with both modes of transportation. Clean, on time, and efficient. Not terribly crowded either. We bought a card that allows us to swipe on the buses (at a discount rate) and subways so we won’t have to buy tickets everytime. It’s kinda like the Oyster card for London, so of course I love it. How fangbian. Also the bus is so cheap! Only .40 kuai!
Going to Houhai during the day was nice, because it wasn’t so crowded and crazy like it gets at night. The area was really nice, with a big lake where people were boating, fishing, and swimming (the last one at their own risk). Too bad the smog had to diminish the splendor! OK I should stop complaining and probably accept this condition as a fact of life here. (Though that doesn’t make it any more tolerable!). Anyway we stopped in this one shop selling lots of stuff from Tibet, and the staff was really funny and nice and wanted to take lots of pictures with us crazy waiguoren. I tried helping some girls bargain for things but I don’t think I did much for them. However I’m a little more prepared for when I go out shopping on my own, since I had a bit of fun helping them. Too bad they were overwhelmed by the salesmanship… which really wasn’t that bad, in my opinion. I’ve dealt with much pushier people, even in America.
Then in the afternoon we had this scavenger hunt activity where we paired up with someone and had to go find a random landmark they had assigned to us. We weren’t allowed to ask any native English speakers for help, or to take a taxi. Lucky for us, there are tons of Olympic volunteers on our campus, so I asked them (in Chinese!) to help us and they kindly wrote directions for the bus (in Chinese!). We made it there and back (our was a French supermarket chain called JiaYueFu that’s basically like Walmart on crack) and a nice student helped us find the campus again on the bus ride home. Beijing people are nice when your lost! But I still have a long way to go in completely understanding directions. Mostly it’s a lot of me pointing, asking Nei biar? And I nod a lot, even though I don’t understand. But I try! And I think if I had to get somewhere on my own I would be ok… provided I had a map and a piece of paper so people could write things down for me.
A successful (if wearying) excursion.
Thunderstorms
Day 2 in Beijing except that it feels much longer. There was more random orientation lectures today and those in between running around the city trying to find the basic necessities (money, cell phone, towels and shampoo in that order) I am now exhausted at 10 AM again. It’s kind of annoying that they have all these things planned for us when I just really need time to get out in the neighborhood, buy some things, and take in my surroundings. On the other hand, it’s been nice getting to know the staff and teachers; everyone has been really friendly and there’s a good deal of individual attention, since our program is so small.
We had lunch at a nearby Chinese restaurant and the academic coordinator outlined our trips for the semester. Apparently we are taking a long weekend in Shanghai very soon… in a couple weeks, I think. Then for our long trip at the end of October, we are spending a week in Nanjing and then a week in rural Yenan (I think that’s the name… not quite sure. Definitely not Yunnan though). I’m very excited for these excursions! And just plain excited for classes in general, though they seem like a lot of work. We also have to do an outside research project that we will present in a symposium at the end of the semester. So yes, classes seem like a fun challenge, but no I’m not quite ready for them to start yet. I need to get oriented to my surroundings first!
One cool thing that happened today: on my way to get my cell phone, one of the RA’s volunteered to take me to the store since it was too hard to explain how to get there. So he showed up with a bike and was like, “We have a ride.” My job was to sit on the back of the bike on this metal bar thing, keep my balance, and hang on for dear life. In that order. I managed not to fall but I have no idea how Chinese people can do that with such ease. I’ve seen people sitting on the back holding umbrellas and such. They must have abs of steel, is what I’m thinking. And short legs probably helps too. But the bike made the trip much shorter and dodging traffic really wasn’t as terrifying as I expected. Beijingers are no doubt used to the crazy mix of cars/bikes/mopeds/pedestrians/buses and there’s an odd synergy in traffic flow that follows the seemingly chaotic combination. (Though I can’t imagine how much worse things will be at the end of September, when the cars come back on the roads in full force.)
I’m meeting up with Cheng tomorrow evening, finally! It seems like so long ago that we parted at the airport but it was… yesterday. I’ve clearly been kept busy, but I wonder what he’s been up to? Also, I’m really glad I didn’t go out to a bar tonight with some of the kids—it’s pouring buckets outside now, with thunder and everything. Knowing my luck, my brand new cell phone would’ve been ruined.
Word of the day: qianming 签名 TO SIGN ONE’S NAME (as in, on the traveler’s checks that the Bank of China won’t let me cash unless my mom is here. Sigh.)
1st Post from Beijing
Most amazingly, our flight from Columbus to Newark was on time and landed so that we had just enough of a layover in Jersey to change terminals, hit the bathrooms, and study some Chinese as we waited for boarding. Then we actually took off a little early, though in the long scheme of things it didn’t really matter since the flight was still ridiculously long. But it was cool to watch the map of our progress as we flew over Greenland and Mongolia. And I must say, Continental was very cool with entertainment for the flight. There were hundreds of movies on demand, TV shows, and video games. I personally watched two Chinese movies, Prince Caspian, and an episode each of 30 Rock, Scrubs, and House. In between times I slept and ate. The food was bad, as to be expected, but really not bad. It was just awful because they gave us this “dim sum” meal right before landing, and it was a rough landing. Cheng and I were both queasy peasy.
I was sad that we didn’t get to walk through the new terminal on our way to customs. Hopefully I’ll get to take a picture there on my way back. From baggage claim on, it was smooth sailing, as they say. Jimmy met Cheng as we exited, and my program was gathered there already. We parted ways and will meet up again when the cell phone gods reunite us. My program had an hour long bus ride ready for us, but actually it was cool because we drove on the fourth ring road past the Bird’s Nest and the Water Cube. Yes, we took pictures. Yes, it was awesome and I want to go back there immediately to see everything up close. Preferably at night.
The rest of the bus ride was hum drum. I felt very strange looking out the windows. It was as if everything was familiar, because in my mind I remembered the tall high rises, gigantic furniture stores, and tiny store fronts as the Beijing I visited three years ago. And yet I knew it was different. There were less cars on the roads. There was Olympic propaganda and posters everywhere. There even seemed to be less people about. However, once we reached Haidian (the university district) the people appeared in full force. It was much more of a neighborhood Beijing feel than the large, abstract buildings we had been passing (also spotted: Dominos and Pizza Hut).
Once the bus dropped us off on campus (wow, I’m attending a real campus this semester with a gate and everything… weird) I found out that only myself and one other girl were in the CI Program—the rest of the 20 some people headed off to dorms about 5 mins away. But oh no, we were special, we got in a taxi and shuttled over to the East Campus dorms. I was quite amazed that 1) our taxi driver was female and 2) she didn’t mind that three of us (the RA included) were climbing into her cab for 5 minutes with 5 huge suitcases. This would never happen in NYC, I thought. (And I will always been comparing Beijing to NYC for no good reason other than I am living in both of them… they are very much not alike. You will see).
Our dorms are pretty sweet, btw. The building is actually a dorm/hotel, so the singles look kinda like small hotel rooms. And the air conditioner is awesome. The shared bathroom at the end of the hall, not so much, but hey we’re a small program so I’m hopeful that it’ll work out okay. After unpacking some of us went to a nearby convenience store to buy some things, but more of that will take place tomorrow. As in, tomorrow when I go to the bank to exchange my traveler’s checks and actually have cash. They’re keeping us on a pretty tight schedule though, so we don’t suffer much jetlag. As it is, it’s 10 PM (though my comp still says AM) and I’m just not going to sleep after… I can’t even count how many hours without a full rest. Definitely time for some much needed beauty sleep.
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